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Time will tell... My new "reluctance" now is to pour a smooth surface over the pitted and bumpy sub-floor revealed beneath the tiles. I wonder what degree of unevenness/roughness I can get away with, I guess if I use a deep bed of adhesive for the new tiles it should work alright. I went around...

Thanks, guys. I had nothing to do last night (well, I have plenty to do, but I'm scared to start tiling around the bath...) so I ended up removing the whole kitchen floor, it's only about 8sqm so maybe I'll re-tile it for about £150.

Unfortunately not - maybe there was a way I could have done it if I was clever about it but I only ended up with two or three lucky whole tiles. Whereas the wall ones come off so neatly I'm considering re-using them... I didn't have this issue in mind at the time, either, so I guess I wasn't...

Yea, good plan. I've only just removed these same tiles from the nearby bathroom and the adhesive beneath was some tough stuff - maybe normal for floor adhesive, but anyway it took a lot to smooth the ridges down. In practice I imagine I'd have to pour a new floor over the whole room before...

You'll wonder why I don't want to replace them, but:

That's directly through the external wall that the CU is on (single-storey extension).

Maybe if it was free! And would that come as standard in a new CU or would it still need extra parts then? Not that I'm aware of, the cooker is gas and there's no sign of an electric one. No heater or anything. They may just have been dormant forever? Yes there's an intact plastic...

I've removed some kitchen units which won't be replaced and there's a 50cm strip down the edge of the room, a good 2m long, which was never tiled. I won't find spare tiles of this sort and am reluctant to replace the rest of the floor. Any ideas how best to fill it, who's actually done this...

If indeed we call it a CU, or a fuseboard or whatever it is. There's a cover for it, of course - I removed it for the photo: The two right-most "fuses" don't do anything that I'm aware of, the three used circuits are: > sockets, whole house, 13 double sockets including spurs and...

Yep, I saw it too late - if this doesn't work then I'll try one.

Wickes didn't stock either the centralising washer or brass back nuts (:roll:) but Toolstation (my first visit since 2009, how time flies) provided me with both. Together they seem to do the trick! All looks good and the taps are now secure, but I haven't put water through it yet. I'm...

Ah, also: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Split-Klick-Centralising-Washer-Single/p/221402

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Essex-Orange-Fix-a-Tap-Fittings-Kit-for-1-2-Taps-Ceramic-Basin-Fixing-Washers-/171359339542?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item27e5d00416 ?

I have a basin here with tap holes that measure over 30mm in diameter. The tails on my taps are "15mm" or whatever, so about 20mm OD in practice. So there's loads of lateral play no matter how they're tightened up. Also, the washers I've got have an OD only just larger than the holes in the...

I'm about to loose-lay (hopefully) some vinyl in a 2x3m bathroom (on concrete). Skirting hasn't been affixed yet so that will go on afterwards. What is an appropriate gap to leave above the vinyl? I won't sit the skirting firmly on top as that would prevent me from removing the vinyl if ever...

Yea, no brackets with this so I made up some wooden equivalents. Also, the radius of the outer most edge, on the rim, seems quite large. So even where the wall and bath are tight there's probably a full tile + adhesive's depth before we get to the flat part of the bath rim. Know what I mean?

So this sort of thing is no good? [img]http://img.archiexpo.com/images_ae/photo-g/tile-edge-trims-pvc-inside-corner-94882-3764073.jpg[img] *sigh*, yea - I guess that's going to be the best option. How do I restrain the bath into the chase? Currently I have a vertical batten reaching up into...

Hi. I can't find clear references to this particular issue but I'm sure it's a common one. I have an acrylic bath which I've set onto battens under the lips, and I've put a vertical "clamping batten" under three corners as well. The wall is slightly wavy so that the gap between it and the...

Very useful, thanks.

I have a flat roof over a single-storey extension and I'd like to know what kind of weight it would be capable of holding. I know it wasn't designed to bear a load, but clearly it can take something since, for instance, I can walk around on it with no problem and it feels as firm as a floor...