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I may have to replace (with http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing-central-heating/water-tanks-cylinders/hot_water_tanks/Polytank-10-4-Expansion-Tank-Black-9414885?skuId=9705590 or similar) my central heating F&E tank. It has fixed 15mm copper pipe in and out - can I use lengths of braided hose to...

In any case, I refilled the header tanks - unfortunately there's a slow leak around the bottom of the CH one, seems like the seal around the "out" hole isn't really doing the trick any more. Do you reckon if I drain it off I could just go nuts with sealant and see if that does the trick...

I don't know what this refers to, where can I find the motorised valves? The only electrical part I'm aware of is a pump near the back boiler.

Here's an idea - since the floor is presumably level (the previous tiler was happy with it and I noticed no issues myself) but now simply not flat due to the old adhesive, could I just scrape down the adhesive as best I can (it won't come off as such but the high points do grind down) and then...

Yea, I guess I'd just put the boiler on to do hot water for an hour, then run it all out of a tap to see how much it managed in that time and think if it would be enough for a shower. I don't anticipate many other uses for hot water in this house, but it depends who lives here. I use the cold...

Hello. I have a Baxi Bermuda LFE3 serving five radiators and providing DHW. I've had it drained down for months now, and to achieve that I just secured the ball cocks in the two header tanks and then 1) ran a hot tap and 2) drained water from a valve next to a downstairs radiator. I want to...

It seems that 10 minutes of electric shower operation every day costs about the same as my boiler's pilot light does, i.e. £70-90 per year... But I have no idea how much it costs to get hot water off it as I've never actually had it in use properly yet. And the system is all drained currently.

Thanks for the ideas, seems like there are a lot of ways to do it. What I need to do really is calculate the cost of running an electric shower vs. using hot water from my old Baxi Bermuda back boiler, and see if it's even worth moving the electric one or just getting a mixer down in the...

I thought that was only for low voltage stuff, signal cables. Is it armoured somehow, the skirting for power cables? I might be putting up wood cladding around the lower half of the room so that could hide the main horizontal travel of the cable, only needing to be chased down from the old...

Thanks for the ideas - the outside route would work rather well, actually - presumably with the cable set into some kind of expensive exterior trunking. But then even indoors it all has to be armoured, doesn't it. There are already significant areas of damaged plaster so it may be ok to create a...

My shower and its main switch are currently to be found in one corner of a rectangular bathroom (roughly 2 x 3m). I'm considering the possibility of moving it to the diagonally opposite corner, where there is a water supply but no electricity. The bathroom is in a single-storey, ground-floor...

Wickes SLC: "This product will not work over existing tile adhesive as this will not adhere correctly." :?:

Sorry to hear that, hope you repair yourself soon. I didn't have a good excuse like that, I was (am) just an idiot and had (have) no idea what I'm doing.

I'll have to see what pattern and type of vinyl I use and how conspicuous the join will end up being. I'll be screwing the plywood cover down into plugs in the concrete around the drain hatch, so to make it quickly accessible I'd have to leave those screw heads exposed as well, I suppose, or...

OK, thanks. That might work, then. I've tried soaking the adhesive with water for a few hours but it doesn't really separate from the floor below, so it seems I may have to try the SLC option. Does this diagram make sense? That's the final arrangement I anticipate. I'd put down some...

I understand that part, but what I'm wondering is how to level the rest of the floor without it all just pouring down into the drain. The entire hatch assembly (the outer fixed rim plus the removable lid part) is slightly below the level of the concrete floor. In general, how does one stop...

Does it mean that the SLC option is not viable, though? Or is it still a good idea but I just need to build a temporary higher rim around the hatch to stop it flowing in?

Thanks, sounds like a good way to do it. I used the wrong terms, I think - I meant to convey that the frame or surround of the entire hatch, i.e. the part fixed into the floor, is at or slightly below floor level. So it unfortunately doesn't provide a nice raised lip against which SLC could...

Hmm. I don't know why I'm so worried about it, I guess that if it sets wrong then I'm really in trouble and I'll have to chip it all off again which is a hell of a job. The rim of the drain cover is actually at or perhaps slightly below the level of the concrete floor, so I suppose I'd have...

You see no issues with ply? It sounds a lot easier to met, I've read so many "it didn't work" or "we did it wrong" reviews about self-levelling compound. I'm waiting for some replies over in the flooring forum, will be a few days yet before I'm in a position to do anything.