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Evening all, Ive seen a few threads regarding running cables behind coving and the general consensus is that it’s a no no for a few reasons. However would it be acceptable to create a Plasterboard service void running all the way round the kitchen and drop down where required from there...

Thank you, not sure 12l will be enough to run two showers though?

I’ve emailed them actually ... although I’m a bit confused where the water would come from? Does it just suck the mains to 12l how would it know there was an upstream problem? I’m on a shared supply with next door and have no idea what the plumbing situation in their gaff. The neighbour wasn’t...

Thinking something that I can lift on a regular basis tbh ....it’s quite a useful space for storage. Just seems like a waste

Ok I see your point now but I can’t fit anything bigger in.... surely there’s a way to feed two showers (one mixer one electric) So what’s the answer? Even with an unvented I still have the same problem? I’m really confused now

Thanks ... yes normally houses either have a cellar or they don’t. So I get why there’s little need for them. Maybe I could get away with an internal man hole tray? Floor is chipboard and covering will be LVT

Yes I’d need to do that obviously but was looking for a kit with gas struts etc that just drops into the trimmed joists. There’s a few bespoke cellar door people out there but they look expensive so just wondered if there’s anywhere that does a trap door kit in the same way that there’s loads...

I’m not sure until I get under the kitchen floor .... the kitchen is a gable extension and then the utility an extension to the extension so each is seperate to the main house. The only other suspended floor is under the lounge / dining room and is fine 4 x airbricks front to back with latice in...

Toying with the idea of a trap door to access out 4ft crawl space under the utility.... I can find loads of loft door kits but no trap door ones? Anyone know where to buy?

Pot luck? Surely there’s a science to it? Although I’m not sure what that’s got to do with my question? I guess the basic requirement is that the cable and mcb can take the load applied to it under normal working circumstances. I’m not on a smart meter but is there a way to “measure”...

I’m no sparky but I kind of follow what you’re talking about and I’m intrigued .... surely the concept of selectively applies to every plugged appliance with a fuse? 3amp or 13amp?

It’s an old house and everything is on a downrated radial circuit... dogged off here there and everywhere including an outbuilding. Nothing has ever tripped but I did have a socket start to melt once, which I was told was just bad fitting (It was fitted by a part P electrician ) Sparky...

There’s also evidence of woodworm on the joists ‍♂️

Thanks so much for commenting Ken.... the space is around 4ft deep and is an extension to the original house. It used to be a coal bunker so I assume there wasn’t much need for additional air bricks as the door you can see on the right here would of been open and closed frequently. Two of the...

I think you’ve misunderstood me and for that I apologise if I’ve not made it clear. I’m not going to disregard what the electrician said I’m merely floating the question to see who agrees or disagrees with the spec..... it’s an open discussion about cable size so if some clever chap on here...

Running the cables .... ok maybe I did miss the bit about him hooking it up but I think I’ve made that clear throughout the thread in later posts. No need for the arsey replied imo

I’m sure no honest electrician would sell anyone something they didn’t need, but I’d like to be in a position to qualify what I’m being told. Like remember the bloke who put the second electric shower with only 60amp total (claiming diversity)! That was HIS decision too, a different electrician...

Why so hostile fella? I really don’t understand what the problem is here? My sparky is happy for me to help him do things like pull cables and channel plaster etc? He’s happy to tell me what to do for basic first fixes and then use his superior skills to hook it up ... the only question I have...

Really appreciate the notion of being honest and having the right interpretation of who can do what etc. I think it’s important to observe that the fact I’m asking a professional to help design and hook it up proves that I respect the regs etc. I’m happy to take guidance and if the sparky has...

Just knocked a hole in the utility ceiling which has been dropped from the original. Expected to find just studwork holding up 9mm plasterboard but in fact I’ve got 6x2 joists and noggins spanning the opposite way to the original joist. Ok I hear you say, a common method to support at failed...