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You won't be able to have CH on on it's own on a Y plan system without a wire from terminal 1 connected to the grey wire on the 3 port valve!

Do it like that and you will be back to square 1 but with the other bulb being on instead of off. Just do it like I told you in the first answer I gave you. All these other people butting in and not helping! It doesn't matter if the live is in the common terminal or not. All the OP had to do...

The 612 boiler is a system boiler, so there will be a 3 port valve or at least 2 2 port valves somewhere. It/ they may have failed, or the timer could be faulty. If when you linked 3 and 4 on the PCB the boiler fired up then the PCB is unlikely to be faulty.

Put the wire that is in LA2 into LA1 instead.

If you look at the picture stem posted and follow the lines you will see that 2 is CH off (which is very rarely used) and 3 is actually CH on.

NC means normally closed which would equate to off. NO means normally open or on So 1 on the potterton would go to HW NC (HW off) 3 to HW NO (HW on) And 4 to CH NO (CH on) The opposite of what you put before.

No problem

Yes

The wire that was in 8 should be connected to L on your new clock. (It was linked to L before by the links from L to 5 and 5 to 8.)

I'm not sure about the nest, but with Hive it has a setting called"ready by" So if you set it to say 21° at 1930 it will come on early, so the temperature will be 21° at 1930. Not just start heating up at 19.30

You don't need a relay. The live feed to the boiler goes to terminal 3 and the feed to the pump goes to terminal 4. You then need to set the Hive to "gravity mode". To do this you press the left hand button on the Hive receiver for 5 seconds the top green light will change from green to blue...

Could it be D U W Downstairs heating Upstairs heating Water Do you have 3 zone valves?

So blue should be to terminal 3 Red to terminal 4 and Yellow to terminal 6

Sorry my mistake. I've got water and heating the wrong way round.

On the nest terminal 4 is heating off, terminal 6 is heating on.

Also you need to move the blue wire in terminal 4 in the heat link to terminal 6

You need to bridge terminals 2 and 3 in the wiring centre or just move the white wire in terminal 4 to terminal 3.

So long as the existing stats are mains powered the Hive wired up stats would just replace them, you wouldn't need to change the control panel

I'm not familiar with those Poly Pipe thermostats, maybe someone else is?

You can get a wired up version of the Hive thermostat that would make it easier to just swap your underfloor heating stats, (so long as they are just standard mains powered thermostats and not some type of low voltage ones that send data to the control centre rather than just switching on and...