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Thanks for replying. The frame (as you can see) has the channel for the IS (we've got the one with brushes as believe it needs to be an FD30S door?) the issue is that the hinges we have (SS ball bearing fire rated) are 51mm wide (each leaf 20mm) but the width between the edge of the frame and...

Hi, We need a fire door between our newly insulated/boarded utility room and garage. We've got this Wickes fire door frame which is 108 mm deep. Can someone confirm whether the hinges fix on the edge nearest to the rebate for the intumescent strip, so that the spine of the door sits over the...

Must be a 70' design built in the 60's then. The pointing on the front and back of the house isn't too bad. The back looks a bit of a mess because of the waste pipe changes that have been made over the years, but repointing wouldn't change that. It's the side and the garage wall, especially the...

"I don't think they built your house with some sort of special spongy bricks" I think that's pretty obviously sarcasm Everyone has opinions regarding what makes a house look attractive, but not sure anyone could say our brickwork was pretty or even rustic, and the size of the windows gives it a...

Cheers. Pretty sure it must be. It only happens when we have heavy rain with the wind blowing onto the end of the house. It's happened 3 times in the last 18 months. Always in the same 2 /3 small places along the length of the util/garage. At the moment we've got the cavity exposed in the...

OK no need to be sarcky! Just what people have said to us. Maybe they meant that our bricks are more porous. They're the very dark, rough bricks. No way could we do it ourselves and , as you say and sx turbo's posts show, it's not easy to find good tradesman these days. Besides, there are some...

it's the porous bricks I'm more concerned about. Husband went up and did a bit of patching on the gable end (actually it's not the gable as our 60's house has gable end front facing) but we've got water coming in in the garage and doorway between the kitchen and utility where we're just about...

Your bricks look a lot nicer and in better conditions than ours! I understand it'll be more costly, but (IF it's done right) with us having nasty porous bricks, I think it might be a better option and maybe we could add some insulation. I think you can get coloured render and maybe even render...

Cheers. I did wonder

Hi guys. What gradient do we need on an ACO drain along the side of a garage? It's a block paved narrow path. Approx' 7m long. Proposing to connect into a pre existing surface water drain. One place I read 1 in 100, but that would mean a 7cm difference in height, which would look pretty odd...

is the wall single brick or a cavity wall? If it's single brick then the recommendation is that you leave a gap of about 25mm between the wall and the insulation. Not sure what the room's used for, but it might be wise to come out a bit further so you can at least put , say 25mm PIR board across...

I can't help with the technical question, but we've had the same problems re repointing quotes. We got one guy to quote for a North east facing half gable end and garage side wall (the garage is attached to the gable end) plus repoint some small areas of bad spots on the back of the house. It's...

Always seems like SIPS go up more quickly, openings for windows are already there, therefore build can be made watertight sooner. Do SIPS need the same depth of foundations as a block/brick build?

Thanks woody. Hadn't thought about using a larger timber .That's what we've done elsewhere on single brick walls. 3 x 2's with 50 mm insulation between and there'll also be 25 mm insulated pb over. So where on the reveal would you advise fixing the 3 x 2? To the right of the doorway we only have...

Building Inspector wants 25 mm insulation on the door reveals which are in a now insulated cavity wall. The door was refitted when we had the kitchen (other side of the doorway) done, removed ugly step over concrete step and made the door frame flush with the kitchen wall. The door lining is...

yes, the depth of the non cavity external wall. If it's less than about 220 mm then they strongly advise (and building reg's would insist) that you leave an air gap between the wall and the celotex (or any other PIR insulation). We left 25 mm because the brickwork is so uneven, but the BCO...

Sorry for late reply Looking at other properties, I think it was previously concrete. No traces of any concrete underneath now. The height of the paving is OK ish at about a brick and a half below the DPC, it's just that the garage floor is below the DPC level. Haven't got the heart to remove...

Thanks 23vc. Issue we might have is that the gap is 200 mm. Pavers are 100 mm as they were jammed right up against the house wall-took some brute force to get them out. There's a piddly little concreted channel against the retaining wall on the other side which maybe was meant to act as a...

Yes, that's what I've been looking at. Do we need to set it in mortar? Mainly sand mixed with some ? hardcore there at the moment.It's the path up the side of the house and won't have any foot traffic on it as right against the house wall. Agreed. Looking at the surface drain there's round bits...