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Please help. I cannot fathom these instructions for this free-standing bath filler https://images.victorianplumbing.co.uk/images/PDF/TRAD03D-FS-nEW.pdf It seems to assume you are able to get under the floor to attach the supply end of the feed pipes to the hot and cold supply after you have...

Might be a stupid question, but how do you know it‘s just heating the water and not running the central heating?

Well, it was a ******* of a job as expected, had to re-route all the pipe work, reinforce most of the joists in two places (once for the large notch in the centre, once around the new waste). In the end the waste boss turned out to be rather easy, I couldn’t get the clip around so I just cut it...

I’ve picked up this boss collar which is more slender than others I‘ve seen, I think with a bit of effort and swearing I should be able to fix it around the pipe. Question… what do I seal the inside edge with? Solvent weld glue? Are all soil pipes compatible with solvent glue?

The bath is the opposite side of the room, thankfully. The holes for the waste are by far not the most concerning holes/notches. These 8”wide notches cut by whoever did the central heating are right in the middle of the 3m joist span. By a small mercy they align right in the centre of a 60cm...

It does, but thankfully it’s only a 2m span (5 joists) so I believe I can get the drop required with holes within a reasonable tolerance of the joist centreline. I’ll brace it witch some steel strapping above and below also.

The shower is the issue, want a low-profile tray in there so the waste outlet will be below the floorboards before it’s even started. I’m going to try and put a boss adaptor below the lip of the bottom pipe so it’s right at the bottom of the joist, the boxing below is fairly generously...

Hi all, Renovating my bathroom at the moment and discovered that the previous plumber had put the waste pipe for the sink/bath/shower into the vertical sewage pipe above the floor level (meaning all of the wastes were ultimately flowing uphill - which explains the poor drainage in the room!)...

Forgive the casual terminology, it's a CU with RCDs yes.

My new property has an TT earth but at some point someone has put block paving over the earth spike location making it unservicable/uninspectable, although it is within acceptable impedance limits currently. The property also has a PME supply which is currently not connected to the installation...

Hi all, When installing a 3-core SWA cable on a single phase installation where one of the internal cores is being used as the CPC, is it still required to earth the SWA armour layer? Thanks!

Ultimately something will have to be done to the extension CU in any case as I need to install a 32A EV charger in the garage as well!

Thats my worry, how much of the system was a DIY/cost saving bodge. Thanks for the advice everyone, ultimately you're right, the cost of remedying the extension/outbuilding CUs is fairly low, and even if it needs a complete re-wire it's a small % of the house cost.

The main CU has a 40A MCB supplying the extension CU via 6mm T+E which has: 1x 40A for electric shower 1x 32A for living accomodation sockets 1x 16A for garage sockets 4x 6A for garage lights, living accom lights, exterior lights and smoke detectors. Then another 40A MCB supplying the outhouse...

Hi all, We're looking to buy a house at the moment. The property is generally sound but even to my partially knoweldgable eye there are some serious defects with the electrics, including: - Undersized conductors for circuits - Inappropriate MCB specification and circuits for applicances -...

This stuff? https://roofstores.co.uk/remix-rooftile-bedding-mortar-20kg?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmKiQBhClARIsAKtSj-naY-MTc_9owmSbNuN8UAwlWoTGQ6qo5RWsni18h1mnsSpRPE-JkOwaAt0gEALw_wcB cheers

Hi folks, What should I repair this with? Is it just standard brick-laying mortar? cheers

Yeah the diode was only included with the original 'Gen 1' Ring doorbell and only for triggering US-spec digital doorbell chimes. It has no use with a mechanical chime and won't work at all with the Gen 2 or later Ring door bells.

Yes sadly there is no way to make the Ring doorbells work with a traditional chime, as they output no electrical signal when the button is pressed. There is an adapator kit for US style chimes, but nothing similar for UK/EU. Which is a shame, as this would be a great feature and a good backup...

Yep the latest Ring doorbells can take 8 to 24VAC from a traditional bell transformer or 24VDC from a dedicated supply. The chime will actually be disconnected, so it’s needs are arbitrary for now, just the wires to the doorbell will be reused.