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Screwfix Greenbrook T100A-SCR will fit your bill

Are the radiators and towel rail that are working on the DHW circuit by any chance. Quite common in some older systems.

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This can be achieved by manually making that connection in the wiring base and switching on and off via the fused spur, assuming you have one.

In the very unlikely event you need to reset the electrode gap, under no circumstances try to bend them. If you slacken off the nuts at the back, you can rotate them to the correct position. As you have replaced every component that can cause continuous running without lockout, it is difficult...

For what it costs, a new boiler stat is worth a shot, but also poor circulation is possible.

Is the radiator sufficient for the room volume? Is the pipe run of sufficient sze to feed the radiator?

Close the auto air vents and see if that helps. If it does, then an occasional opening to relieve air may be needed.

Classic symptom of faulty photocell. If you remove the photo cell from the control box and the burner lights then locks out, that is likely your problem. Try rhat before replacing burner.

The oil pipes are sufficiently malleable to be able to be adjusted to relieve any strain. i've always fitted these to the pump and then connected the top case end. it sounds more like the pump is fitted too tightly into the motor. The grub screws only need to be nipped up to eliminate rotary...

Did you use a genuine Rayburn timer or a Honeywell product? The Honeywell programmers are not rated for the temperature but the Rayburn one is.

If you turn off the hot water demand, then you take power off the burner and the lockout will go out. If you re-instate the demand, then the light will come back on. What happens if you press the lockout lamp?

For the size of the property and assuming the hot water outlets are spread wide, then it may be sensible to go with your installer. controlling the heating function to supply both heating and hot water is no different to controlling them with a system boiler, but as already said above, depending...

No, only connections in the oil line.

Because it is a wall mounted boiler that is generally fitted above the tank level and designed to run on a single pipe without a deaerator. A clear pipe enables you to see any airlocks. At one time clear pipes were fitted to Trianco boilers.

Exactly which HRM boiler do you have? Presume Wallstar combi if you have diverter and microswitch. If it will run after purging air in the supply, but after a couple of runs you have to purge it again, then you have an air leak somewhere. Recheck all your connections. The diverter valve has no...

is there any evidence of leakage around the pump shaft seal? I've seen this cause the ever growing bubble. HRM always discount a NRV at the tank. At one I used to service, I 'cured' this problem by replacing the factory NRV with a conventional NRV and thermostatic wheelhead isolation valve...

Your Riello 2.2 is an RDB burner, totally different to the G5X. Have you disconnected the photocell as advised above? If you do so and the burner fires then goes to lockout, you've found your fault. RDB photocells are notoriously unreliable.

If it was lack of oil, then the burner would go to lockout. If the burner motor is runnimg continuously, then it is either a faulty photocell or a control box fault. Testing for a faulty photocell is hardly technical.

Which burner is it? On any burner, you should be able to disconnect the P/cell. Do that and see if the burner lights, then locks out. If so, then you have your solution