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Another question came into my head; if I'm leaving the old olives, it means I need to leave/use the old nuts as well?

I like the advice on leaving old olives, that simplifies things. I can easily return the olive removal tool to amazon. With the 'making extra sure stuff'; is the advice to use White Hawk OR PTFE tape? Or Is it, use White Hawk AND PTFE tape?

Thanks, kudos1uk. I was just in the process of making up a step-by-step procedure and got a bit stuck with the order on how to attach the new stuff. Two questions: 1) Removing and attaching the whole unit as one will require moving the pipes by a good few cm, perhaps 4 or 5? Is there usually...

Sorry, my friend. Auto spellchecker must have had a go at your name. Fixed now.

That's useful having the olives explained, I've just watched a YouTube video on the matter. If new valves DEFINITELY come with olives (see my earlier post for link to valves I intend to buy) then I would like, as you suggested, dilalio, to attach new ones. Removing the old olives does seem...

Do you mean the UPS2? Yes, this is a serious question, do you know the answer? If you know the answer to my question 1) as well, I'd be grateful. This isn't the first time I've being told this on the forum. Please, I really appreciate the help/assistance/advice AND my very specific...

In looking at the valves I intend to buy (link in earlier posting): I notice they include a washer but only for the larger 1.5" end. This makes me wonder about two things. 1) The pump comes with two washers for each of its (large) 1.5 inch ends. Won't that give me a total of 4 x 1.5"...

As my boiler was installed in 1999, this 'rumour' of the newer USP2 pumps damaging PCB on boilers doesn't rest easy with me. It's all the more reason to get a pump that matches the power spec and operating mechanism as the original that was installed with the boiler back in 1999; hence the...

I think I'm convinced now, In looking at Grundfos' webpage: https://product-selection.grundfos.com/products/up-ups-series-100/ups2?tab=documentation It reads; "The (USP2) motor is based on permanent-magnet and compact-rotor technology securing silent operation and low energy consumption."...

Why do you say that? It concerns me that my old one (USP) has maximum power rating of 95W, yet the newer Grundfos USP2 only has maximum power rating of 48W. Are we sure the USP2 'upgraded' ?? version will do the same job as the older 95W model. I mean the older one is literally double the...

Just realised the Grundfos one, the expensive one, may not be suitable - see the power ratings on the photos. The cheaper one, 'boiler-m8', has similar power ratings compared to my old one. Once again, see the pics. Am I missing something here; I need to buy the cheaper one because the more...

Yes, I do have small tank in loft. I have 'bunged' (closed off?) water supply to it and system is drained. Undo pump onions? That means the nuts? When you say "open vent plug on pump", do you mean the screw on the front to vent? Now which pump should I buy? This would be a direct replacement...

The pump is 22 years old. I'm wondering as the bottom valve weeps now that I've adjusted it and will need to be replaced before flooding the system again; I'm thinking, just replace the pump too. Afterall, it is the likely culprit. If after replacing the pump and valves, it still doesn't work...

No, these are definitely draining taps. I have a garden tap around the side of the house.

I believe I just drained my central heating system by use of the outside LEFT tap. What does the right one do? I briefly turned it on and the water came out with more force.

I tried an Allen key on the bottom valve but it wouldn’t stop weeping, ever so slightly. On rotating valve back to original position it still wept. Draining entire system now. I presume to state the obvious that these valves need replaced. No I haven't checked if power getting to Water pump...

Water pump was roasting hot but no hot hotter. I tried unscrewing the big screw and rotating pump a few times to no avail. Closer view: Allan key valves above and below: I guess I should just isolate the two valves (above and below), turn off electricity (of course) and then...

THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S THOUGHTS, NO MORE NEED FOR ANY FURTHER POSTINGS. :)

I checked, the bottom (underside) of the overflow pipe is 1.3 cm lower than the water inlet. Both distances were measured from the bottom of the cistern tank. Yeah it was, I found it. I extracted the muggy water first of all by using a container: Then I had to use a handpump for the...

Thanks for noticing that, I've now adjusted, the pipe now leads into the small tank (cistern?)