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I'm just glad its passed and I updated it for anyone searching for a similar scenario. Is interesting how 'certain' some people are in their assertions. No doubt one will reply that its still unsafe, or wrong. But bco is happy so I am too

Just to clear this one up, the local council BCO made his final inspection and I discussed the doorway with him. He said its totally fine, and there are zero issues with it. The door opens away from landing. Fully compliant and means I haven't lost loads of space in the room.

That's not my floor. That's Argos in my local town. But I've seen these swirls b4 in lvt. I assume using an A2 trowel prevents it showing thru?

How do you prevent adhesive swirls coming thru LVT? Like this I mean l.....

It's LVT flooring and I'm using F Ball 46 PS adhesive.... so I'm thinking a long straight edge and Stanley knife will do the trick cutting back for the border.

When you lay herringbone floors with a border..... do u install the border first then tile up to it, or is it best to run the herringbone uo to the edges of the room, cut them all back using a straight edge and then fit border.... I've seen both methods, just wondering which is best. If it...

Yeah that's the one - renovation. If its comparable to 700 Flex, ill use mapei cos its half the price

Thanks bud. I'm wondering if I could use 18 gague type 90 staples in my nail gun. Thoughts.....

Im looking to level a few dips in a wooden subfloor prior to glue down lvt. Can anyone reccomend Mapei Ultrplan? Ive read the sticky from Matty that reccomends using F Ball 700 flex - but at 45 quid a bag, the Mapei Ultraplan at 21 quid is a biggsaving - particularly as i need 12 (ish) bags...

No, its not defective - one joist is just a little bit high, and another is a little bit low at the other end. Its created a slight (few mm) dips in the floor. Its absolutley rock solid though.

It's brand new caberdeck that's glued and screwed to the joists. I cant rip it all out, plus I've had 15 sheets of 5.5mm ply delivered now too. Not to mention to sickening cost of thicker ply.

Further to Dazlights advice, i have a P5 chipboard floor that i am going to overboard with 5.5mm ply prior to fitting Camaro LVT. There are a few dips in the existing chipboard that i want to level out. Would it be best to use a suitable SLC over the chipboard first, then overboard with ply...

I've done loads of tiled floors, laminate and lvt click flooring before.... just never glue down lvt, so I'm just trying to understand it. I'm not saying you're wrong, far from it.... I know nothing about it. I'm just wondering what it is about P5 chipboard that makes it unsuitable, where as...

Ball f46 pressure adhesive says its fine to use on chipboard..... IIcant raise the floor 6mm

Can LVT be glued directly to P5 chipboard? ie Caberdeck?

The screw in the middle just winds all the way in or all the way out..... not really a position..... wondering if it should be wound in or out

Anyone know what this is and what it does? It's on my thermostatic mixer shower? 

I had a load to cut recently. I used a large circular saw that cut through the majority of the depth then used.hand saw to finish...tons of dust, complete mess...... BUT on 100mm and 150mm thick board, I got nice vertical cuts everytime.

Does a 3 way T-shaped service/henley block exist? So the existing tails can remain in-line, with a new tail coming off at 90 degrees to it?

Thanks John. Don't really think its the uutility company at fault - I assume they have authorisation from the council and the paint they used was fine. She couldn't stand the fact that there was a white cross painted outside her house on the footpath and so she's been out and painted over it...