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Can a radial be 25A?

Thanks. Appreciate it. I'll take a look over the weekend again and see where I need the sockets and decide to make it a ring or just branch or extend the radial. @333rocky333 - noted. If I end up with the radial and it gives me issues on tool start-up when there is other load on (I have a...

I just re-read your comment and see you and I talking different things. So you can have multiple radials of a single 16A breaker but clearly you're always limited to 16A. It's not a spur off the radial but direct from the CU. Ok, that might work too then and I can keep my one spare space in...

Thanks. Truth be told - it's unlikely I will be using that much that a ring really needed. Power tools etc and it's only me. I thought of making it a ring because it would be safer. Another radial would also work - I have one spare space in the CU for another 16A MBC so doable. I would safe...

Evening folks, I have a radial circuit in the garage which is fed from a single 16A breaker through 2.5T&E. It has 6 x 2-gang sockets on it. CU is in one corner of the garage and the final socket is the opposite corner. Total run is around 30m I estimate. The garage CU is fed from the house...

Interesting! The wife cooking killed him....

So this is interesting - That one you put as an example. It's rated at all-on 16.8KW (73A) but only a 32A fuse. Are they then expecting it to be a "mixed duty cycle" on the hobs and oven to stay under 32 for the most part.

Just weak wrists :mrgreen: It had to be said. I don't think induction - or electric only - is doable. If the circuit is limited to 32A (I have not checked the cable size so not sure) then I am rather limited. Even the dual-fuel option was coming in at 8.5KW which is too high.

Just had a look at a Rangemaster induction. Max load - I assume that is a christmas day thing - is 16KW. That makes my 32A circuit wanting..... I guess that settles that then :(

No, electric everything else. Grill etc. Only hob is LPG.

thanks. Yes, I know your pain. I rented a house which had a hob like that. Lots of faffing. Pots and pans? I thought aluminium or copper pans would be ok? Valid point on the circuit. Just checked, it's on a dedicated 32A circuit. Existing cooker has an electric oven/grill. Should be ok then...

Folks, My 20 year old Smeg has cooked it's last pie. The internal control board, display panels and plastics have melted. I contacted the company who repaired it since 2003 (I have just bought the house!) and the engineer knows he cooker well. He said it's time to put it to pasture. So, do I...

Folks, I want to put a small wood burner into a garden office. The best internal location for this forces the flue out near - within 2m of - the heating-oil tanks (3 tanks, 2.5KL each). I assume this would be a bad idea or can I mitigate? The other side of the office is on-show to the public...

If anything it's too high. I'll suck it and see. Bench height is 100+12mm ply. I'm 6ft1 so it's about OK. Theory was I can cut legs shorter, I can't cut them longer

Thinking about it, I might make, and screw down, a "socket" or key into which the two front legs sit with the rear legs flush against the wall. This would allow me to lift it up and over should I need to move it. Might be better than screwing it down

Agreed. For this and DIY shelving I have I've got some angle brackets to screw to the floor.

Of course. I was thinking horizontally. I'll try move it but already drill holes. Worst case - I'll router out an elegant notch and it'll look as-designed

It can't get much closer to the front? Sorry, not following.

But first, I needed to build a workbench in garage. First workbench I've built, no plans, just made it up as I went. Cost around £100 worth of wood. All screwed and glued and weights a bunch.

Thanks all. Very good help and advice. I'll pick them out and confirm tomorrow. I assume swapping them is easy for a competent DIY person?