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Willing to share how?

Certain manufacturers will try anything to duck out of warranty claims, not sure on WB. Why is the existing condemned?

Opentherm need the connections from the receiver to the boiler, so depends on where all is located and if you want or are able to run cabling

Depends on where all cabling is. The hive still needs to send a switch live to the boiler for either demand

What make and model of shower?

I don't know how much they charge or how much parts cost without looking it up. We/You don't know it's a £10 part or contacts

Ideal fixed price repair or better engineer

As above, are there any motorised valves installed? I can’t see any linked to the wiring center

If it's unvented then you may not be able to work on it, so I was told. You'd have to alter wiring for that too.

Ok, so you do still need to ascertain if those greys are neutral and if they are all used - if they are you need to add an additional wago. You need to work out which is permanent live - some greys are but could also be the brown. Then you just need to alter the switch wires.

Sounds like a restriction somewhere

Detritus in the ceramic cartridge or on/off selector?

You need to work out whether those grey wires are neutral, if so, then you could utilise those either there or at the the TPone. Looks like there's a spare brown in the Wago - if it's permanent live then you can use that, it again at the TPone. Depends on where you want Hive receivers

I would say so yes, but isolate them safely if you need to refit them.

You’re welcome. Although, having re-looked I think number 1 might be the common to your room thermostat, which also appears to be permanent live, so if it’s comes from a fuse don’t connection unit, then I’d say you can probably just pick 2 and leave one in.

@RandomGrinch hasn’t been on for a while and I hope he’s ok. 9 and 10 are your room thermostats.

Timeguard any good? Just had a look and reviews seem ok. You can’t always trust reviews either as you couldn’t get a good egg or a bad egg. What wattage is the heating element? Perhaps you could wire in a heating time switch, or a higher rated mechanical time switch in series?

No, I answered this in post #2.

You probably do need wireless, but it’s ultimately the motorised valves that send the switch live back to the boiler for a demand. So you’d either need cable to the boiler or possibly a wireless relay.