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Yes that’s fine, no issue with that. I was more referring to when it just goes too far, and we all know it does, yet some folk just don’t like to admit it. Generally speaking, wet lettuce lefty liberal types.

The wet lettuce lefty liberal types wouldn’t dare agree that schools are pushing any such things on kids, don’t be daft!

Great thank you, this is filling me with more confidence before my stress filled work day is over. I will test mains pressure then and if need be fit a prv on the mains feed to the shower. I was after a 2 bar pump so would obviously just need to set the prv to 2 bar? Where would you ideally...

Thanks. Have been reading up on the option but unsure whether it is really viable or not. I’ll have to scrap my own idea of a new cws tank in airing cupboard as I can’t sort an overflow to anywhere!

Afternoon people. I do bathroom refurbs for a living and have fitted many Stuart turner pumps the ‘correct’ way. I.e. dedicated 22mm feed from the cws tank, and Surrey/ Essex flange from the cylinder. However this current job is a headscratcher. Big building that’s been divided up in to...

Oh

Yes, I would get rid of the chipboard and replace with ply. Do your ply infills In between the joists underneath where the former will go. You will need minimum of 18mm ply fixed to the joists over the remaining floor area (extra noggins between joists if required). You will then have a...

Need a thicker former, or build it up

:ROFLMAO:

Ok well make sure the floorboards are well screwed down, obviously being careful of pipes/ cables. I would apply some sbr primer was to the floorboards first, then use tile adhesive to bed the boards down with (full bed) using a 6/8mm trowel. These then need to be screwed at 150 centres to the...

Scraper, brush, hoover

What’s the substrate? Are you going on floorboards or have you ripped it back to joists and fitted ply? Either way you want to make sure your joists are solid, and fit noggins if necessary. I would usually then overboard in at least 18mm ply, fixed at 150mm centres. Then glue and screw 6mm...

Not a problem doing what you suggest. When I build stud walls for niches and services I usually use 4x2 which gives a nice depth to the niche. Have used 3x2cls in the past but sometimes they can be a bit shallow. That backer board is fine to use, however at 10mm you want fairly close stud...

Ideally you want to use a self levelling compound over the whole lot, then ditra on top of that when it’s flat. If you have some noticeably high spots you can grind them down first. You don’t want to be messing around building up loads of areas etc with adhesive - waste of time and money. No...

Fair enough. My dewalt sticks to it like **** to a blanket. Hasn’t been knocked/fallen off in the 6 or so years I’ve been using it

Does your dewalt laser have magnets on the swivel bracket? Mine does, and I have always used it in conjunction with a cheap extendable plasterboard prop - £20ish from Screwfix. You can then mount/slide the laser wherever you want along the pole, very simple

2 small tabs at rear of base where it meets pan, slide these across a few mm then you should be able to slide whole thing forward

Make sure you back butter your tiles before laying them on your combed adhesive bed as well

Leave a 2mm spacer gap from bottom of tile to top of basin, don’t grout this, just silicone it