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I don’t mean the worktop, I mean the base units themselves. Very common practice

Or scribe the units back to the wall so the top of the unit is touching the wall?

Look up lfr sealants on Instagram. He might be able to help

Cheers guys, all drained and re filled with towel rad fitted and no issues. My main concern was the unvented hot cylinder and if that had any affect on the central heating, but obviously not!

If anyone could provide their insight by tomorrow morning, that would be grand!!! (y)(y)(y):sneaky:

My sister wants a new towel rail fitted in her shower room so need to drain system down and change valves etc. I’ve done this plenty of times on a vented system and a system with a Combi boiler. The plumbing set up she’s got is in the photos above. Would it just be the same as draining down...

I hope your installer is having fun abroad(y)(y)(y)

Abuse of member's family removed

No problem. But on a serious note, stop giving people completely the wrong information. You obviously have zero clue what you’re talking about, and you’ve just highlighted that again in your last comment. I’d also love to see these ‘pros’ you work with, they obviously have zero clue either...

You really are chatting rubbish mate, and now filling someone with doubt where it is not needed. As above, 6mm is used as an overlay on a throughly fixed timber floor with little to no deflection. With a full bed of adhesive underneath, the ‘flex’ issue as you put it doesn’t even step in to the...

6mm cement board is what you use for overlay on floors, not 12mm. I’ve laid countless floors with the method explained above with no failures. Full bed of flexible tile adhesive with an 8mm notch trowel coupled with the correct type and number of screws will be absolutely fine

I would thoroughly screw the floorboards to the joists (being careful to avoid cables/pipes) then prime the floorboards with sbr. Wait for this to dry then stick 6mm cement boards down with a flexible cement based adhesive. Screw the cement board down as you go (you can buy suitable screws for...

Have used many levellers including setcrete before, they have all gone rock solid generally when they say they will. There's obviousy something wrong in your case, and I would say it's down to out of date material

Why do you specifically want to use wet UFH? Electric would be easier and less ‘bulky’?

I’ve had the same problem before with a back to wall pan from Victoria plumb that a customer supplied. I was getting leakage from the pan when installed resulting in a puddle on the floor after a few flushes. I spent the best part of 4 hours taking the pan out, checking the waste, checking the...

Tiles are absolutely fine if the prep is done correctly on a timber floor. As above, make sure the boards are well screwed down, use a flexible tile adhesive then screw the 6mm cement boards down. Use the required joint tape bed down with tile addy. Prime then tile on top.

Just a quick one... With a capped and coved wet room vinyl floor, does the flooring go down first, or the wall tiles off a batten whatever height is needed off the floor? Thanks in advance

Use a decent self levelling compound over the whole floor.

What substrate are you fitting the mat on?

Ah ok. So how do they work, as in which part of the lintel sits on what?