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If your Cylinder is a Heatrae Megaflo there are some instructions written on the side, which if followed may actually enable you to fix your only dribbly tundish! Merry Xmas! :wink:

Cobwebs shouldn't be a problem because it states in the regs that any chimney should be thoroughly swept PRIOR to the installation of the Gas fire :roll:

Pressure guage to zero, and the water will slow to a dribble at the drain point filling up is easy provided you know where the filling loop is and how to use it! :wink:

Parts for Heatline are very expensive (as you have found out) the boiler is probably not worth repairing (Heatline boilers sold cheap - they make their money selling spares - and you need lots of them too!) :wink:

I take it you are a fairly new Business?? beware of all of these types they all operate in the same way, they promise continuity of work and payment within 14 Days blah blah blah! - AND THEY ALL LIE! Avoid Avoid Avoid!! :twisted:

You need to consult a Registered Gas Engineer it is possible for SOME gas fires to use the flue (Subject to conditon of flue a satisfactory survey) however there are some fires that CANNOT be fitted it is important that if your flue is deemed to be OK a fire is selected that is suitable for the...

Just drain enough water to reduce the system pressure to zero, put an old towel down as you take out the old valve (do one at a time) you should not need to do a full drain down for this!) it goes without saying to turn of the power supply to the boiler first! :wink:

A Drayton TRV4 head will fit the Honeywell valve body :wink:

99% chance the temperature PCB is goosed! try turning off the mains electrical supply for a few seconds and then on again - you may find the burner will fire (until the PCB freezes again!!) very common fault on this model boiler :wink:

I am very fond of Suntec Pumps - very seldom do I have to replace one of those (sadly they are not as common as they once were perhaps because they cost a little more) :?

Thanks for the heads up on BFP pumps - was unaware of this issue (not had issues ourselves as yet) but many thanks for very useful post! :wink:

Especially if you leave the fire front on!! £50 seems a bit cheap to me!! :shock:

A Plumber might struggle with the electrical aspects of this task, an electrician might also struggle with the hydronic aspects of the task What you need is a HEATING SERVICE ENGINEER ( quite a different trade to plumbing and electrician) :wink:

There is only ONE answer a Gas registered Engineer will be required to carry out this work. :wink:

I suspect this gimmick (cos that is all it is) will be as accurate as the fuel range forecast on my Van which will tell me I am good for 120 miles, but with in 15 is screaming at me to refuel ASAP- I suspect that if you take the info from your nice apollo as gospel you will find yourself running...

Unless you can site a Bulk LPG tank, you will be needing 47Kg Cylinders which work out very expensive - currently oil is 40 - 45 pence/litre which is pretty cheap and compares even to mains gas so I'ds stick in a new oil system TBH! :wink:

Most of the Rooftop plant rooms I work in have tanked floors! simples :wink: can be a PITA getting all your Tools and gear up to the 12th floor plant room when the Lift is out of order though! although the view from the roof is often compensation! I have one site in at Hendon Mount, at night...

Definately needs the attention of a Suffolk based Service Company :wink:

If you are considering a Booster pump, everything downstream will need to be evaluated the biggest requirement would be to replace the hot water cylinder with an Un-vented type (high pressure) this will include expansion provision for the heated water and the temperature and pressure relief...

It took 2 years to get my office ISP to persuade Openreach to investigate the reason for our service regularly dropping out, this is after them insisting the line was fine, and it was the Modem which was replaced TWICE at our expense!! eventually an OR engineer confirmed that our line was bad...