I have had a problem with my Heatline C28 boiler, there was a leak from the diverter valve pin. I called a boiler engineer and he said this a a common problem with this type of boiler. He said it will cost about £480 to fix this. I was too expensive. So I searched on the internet and came across this forum with similar threads.
I bought the Heatline Diverter Valve & Actuator Motor D003200039 3003200039 kit.
The two two 2 amp fuses which blew on the PCB were replaced.
I carefully unscrewed the old black screw-top cap from the front of the diverter valve. Unfortunately I could not pull out the pin and the assembly from the valve. It seemed stuck. I thought it would easily come out and it was a case of swapping the parts with the assembly bits in the correct order.
So I left the pin and the assembly bit and put the new (front) screw-top cap. The leak stopped (phewww...) but then when I fired up the boiler I get hot water but the radiators are only luke warm. The boiler heats the radiator water for a bit then cuts out. Then comes on after the water temperature drops (the temp is displayed on the front panel) and it heats up again. It seems the boiler stops heating when the water temperature in the boiler goes above a certain point. It then starts up to heat after a while when the water temp goes below a certain point.
I am guessing the valve is partially open for radiators but not enough so the water gets too hot in the boiler and stops for a while. Then when it cools down starts up again. The radiators stay luke warm because of this. Not enough hot water circulating through constantly.
The only choice I have left is to remove the valve and then remove the back screw-top cap and hope the parts come of easily. If not I have to buy a diverter valve and replace it.
There are no instructions on how to remove the diverter valve. It is somehow connected to the secondary heat exchanger. How it is attached I cant see. Can some guide me with step by step on how to remove the diverter valve? If by any chance you are doing similar work, picture would be helpful.
Any help would be grateful.
Thanks
Vinny
I bought the Heatline Diverter Valve & Actuator Motor D003200039 3003200039 kit.
The two two 2 amp fuses which blew on the PCB were replaced.
I carefully unscrewed the old black screw-top cap from the front of the diverter valve. Unfortunately I could not pull out the pin and the assembly from the valve. It seemed stuck. I thought it would easily come out and it was a case of swapping the parts with the assembly bits in the correct order.
So I left the pin and the assembly bit and put the new (front) screw-top cap. The leak stopped (phewww...) but then when I fired up the boiler I get hot water but the radiators are only luke warm. The boiler heats the radiator water for a bit then cuts out. Then comes on after the water temperature drops (the temp is displayed on the front panel) and it heats up again. It seems the boiler stops heating when the water temperature in the boiler goes above a certain point. It then starts up to heat after a while when the water temp goes below a certain point.
I am guessing the valve is partially open for radiators but not enough so the water gets too hot in the boiler and stops for a while. Then when it cools down starts up again. The radiators stay luke warm because of this. Not enough hot water circulating through constantly.
The only choice I have left is to remove the valve and then remove the back screw-top cap and hope the parts come of easily. If not I have to buy a diverter valve and replace it.
There are no instructions on how to remove the diverter valve. It is somehow connected to the secondary heat exchanger. How it is attached I cant see. Can some guide me with step by step on how to remove the diverter valve? If by any chance you are doing similar work, picture would be helpful.
Any help would be grateful.
Thanks
Vinny