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Try to use the shorter ones at the end of the odd row - making sure you're not left with all short ones there. Using too many short ones in the middle of the floor creates too many joints, working as hinges. We always advice to treat every room as a separate entity and use thresholds in...

do check the boxes on content first. As for cork strips: DON'T USE THEM!

How long are your 18mm boards? If random - say for instance between 300 - 1200mm and there are (too) many 300mm or 400mm boards - you should not install a floor like this floating but fully bonded with flexible adhesive. Now, chipboard - with its moist repellent surface - does not hold any of...

You can use Saicos Premium HardWaxOil with a drying time of 3 - 4 hours. I wouldn't bother with special application stuff: a simple applicator works fine

The sanding needs to be finished in time for the two coats of HardWaxOil to be applied. We would normally apply the first coat end of day one, second coat morning of day 2 Start as early as possible with the sanding I would suggest and DON'T apply the second coat of HardWaxOil f the first...

Most, if not all, HardWaxOils take appr 10 days to fully cure - depending on the weather (temperature and humidity). 8 days should be enough time The equipment to use depends on the "toughness" of the original finish - do you know what that is: varnish or oil/wax?

Ah! I see, "pun" understood now. Blame my "not-from-around-here-originally-but-always-interested-in-architecture-style-periods-but-not-in-kings-or-queens" Guessing - without seeing a picture of his house - it could be '1930's style ;-)

From wikipedia: Georgian is way earlier http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georgian_architecture

it's quite common (these days with so many products coming from China) the "oil" used on pre-finished boards is not really protecting against drips and spillages. When we install boards like this, we either apply a wax-polish or one coat of HardWaxOil to create a better wear and tear layer.

Cons of glueing: your weakest link will be the bonding between screed (leveling compound) and the floor; it's more expensive than a normal Combi-underlayment (containing a DPM)

Eh, how about having a look here?

Glueing down with suitable adhesive is the best way forward. As for which "reclaimed" blocks to look for: those without bitumen! Thickness at least 10mm (and check if they are all the same width/length, specially when installing in Herringbone pattern)

When we install parquet flooring on existing floorboards, we use 12mm plywood (screwed or stapled down) to create a smooth and stable subfloor.

We would opt for Saicos Premium HardWaxOil - one of the four sheens available with this is Satin-Mat. Easy to apply and more economically priced than the other brands. As maintenance - easy maintenance even - we can recommend the Saicos Wax-Care Spray

Depends, using an old fashion - eco-friendly - buffing block makes it very light work

Think your best bet would be to apply one coat of maintenance polish instead of one (of the normally two) coat of HardWaxOil. You can buff the polish to the shine of your liking.

Or... completely different approach: add half moon stair mats to your stair. Reduces the efforts you need to take to get the varnish finish right plus keeps your family safe on the stairs.

and that made your floorboards squeak?

have a look here, sure you'll find something to suit your wooden floor