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LoL, someone's gone for help? Must be the same reason why many manufacturers - although more and more are switching over to the more stable wood-engineered floorboards - have no problem whatsoever with their solid floorboards - as long as these are wide and long enough - being installed...

You're making your life harder than needed. No glue will hold the fingers together, it is quite easier to glue them straight on to the subfloor - you'll get the hang of it soon. As they did here in this case-study

I'm afraid that does not work, there are no T&G in the fingers - you should apply Basicoll to the underfloor and then press the fingers into the glue

wood glue for laminate flooring will not work, you'll need adhesive that you can trowel so there are ridges. Basicoll PU650Se would suit

We would install exterior grade plywood. Double layers of underlayment could create an extra bounce - go for a thinner underlayment anyway 8.5mm is rather thick for thin laminate flooring

Have you checked the moist content in the wood and the air humidity?

In my understanding a range cooker weights loads more than a tv or sofa. In most cases utilities are placed on plywood and the wood floor installed just a bit underneath it, without the utility item resting on it. 7mm fibre board is also notorious to cause excess movement on a not level floor.

Both could be the cause of the creaking to be honest. Anything heavy on top of a floating installing can restrict the total movement of a wooden floor, plus the uneveness of the underfloor would not help. The fibreboards - 7mm thick?

That depends on the length of the room too. If almost square it does not matter, if really rectangular - say 3 by 6 - it would look odd if the boards run parallel with the shortest wall.

Well, we're floor fitters and we wouldn't. A: treat every room as a separate entity, there will be a different climate in the hallway than in the living room B: the fire place is the focus point We would start right in front of the fire place with a board long enough to avoid having a...

How do you know? You don't know the size of the room! Again, there's a specific rule of thumb in regards of expansion gaps with solid Oak floorboards: 3.5 - 4 mm per meter width of the room. For Pine it is 4 - 5 mm per meter, and for beech it is even 7mm per meter width.

all dimensions, so width, lengths and thickness. 1.5% is rather "wide" - our manufacturers/suppliers would keep a 0.5 - 1% tolerance.

Bound to have loads of small lengths - and if you look at the specifications I would not trust a product that has a 1.5% tolerance on the dimensions!

LOL Ahem, lets not get into a non resolvable dispute - I can throw with names too. There are methods and there are methods, as long as every method is executed correctly. I've had this discussion many times (here and everywhere, in the UK and abroad) and there are many national and...

Depends on if there's a DPM underneath the concrete, if there are moist problems etc. You normally apply a liquid DPM if needed, then after this has dried you apply the flexible adhesive and bond the wood floor.

Fraid your type of solid floorboards can't be installed floating, you'll have to fully bond them with flexible adhesive, you can't nail into concrete. The expansion gap depends on the width of the room (i.e. the width of the floor), 10mm is the minimum you can get away with IF the room is not...

Still beg to differ, as professional fitter (her, not his). If the floorboards are wider than 100mm and there are enough long lengths, there is absolutely no problem installing a solid wood floor using the floating method. Any up to date professional fitter knows that.

Beg to differ on using underlayment when secret nailing Floorsave. This underlayment will be rendered useless due to the impact and angle of the nails. Waste of effort, materials and money!

We'done it ourselves (in our own home that is, never at a client's) without too much problems. As for changing directions: most often wood-engineered boards are used for this, or "parquet" flooring, fully bonded to the underfloor. I wouldn't do this with solid floorboads

Basicoll PU650-SE would suit. As for the max size: appr 50 x 50cm, and preferably diagonal installed