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Yes that one looks like an oil filled rad. That would not store heat so is of little benefit. The installation looks to me like late 50s. I’ll do the maths for you ….70 years!!!! Time to get a younger spark in and quote for a new system if electric is what you’re thinking. Just don’t expect...

I doubt a manual exists. You have two time switches controlling different areas of your house. The large boxes are mercury contactors (relays) they are there to switch the heavy loads of (possibly off peak) storage heaters. Do you know what tariff you are on. As it old, maybe economy 7 or some...

On a less technical note, I have a small stock of filament lamps especially for use in my anglepoise lamp as the weight of any larger LED lamp is way too heavy and I have to add extra springs to stop it flopping down all the time. It would end up being a angle lamp without any poise!

It’s just a simple switch. You can put your two wires in either way round. It makes no difference they just get connected together on Call for Heat.

Tell them you have a pacemaker and forcing you to have an induction hob will put your life in danger. See what they say. I know!

Thanks, not bad as it’s been 20 years since I did one last !!!!

From memory: looking at the terminals from camera angle, put the green cabled one in the centre,3. Put the double blue on 1, Put the blue/white on 2, Put the Red on 4, Put the White on 5, If the grill inner and outer elements are the wrong way round when heated, swap the Red and White over...

Looks like it’s only using 1 phase anyway.

For info for others.. Usually two fuses inside, one will intentionally blow if the door mechanism or micro switch fails. I have known it to blow if the door is slammed, the door micro switch then “beats” the safety switch opening. The fuse is then across the mains. As has been said NEVER operate...

More likely someone who's too lazy to get a replacement battery when it starts beeping because it needs replacing! Or they burn toast a lot.

For what it's worth, Iv'e replaced mine with optical throughout. Any's better than none or ones with the battery removed! Fit Heat detector in kitchen.

Check this out. Check this out. Ionisation smoke alarms (stairwells, landings, offices): Designed to react quickly to fast flaming fires, ionisation smoke alarms are most sensitive to small particles. When fires produce little or no smoke but the fuel is subject to rapid combustion, the...

That appears to be a Sangamo Teleswitch to the right. There is a small red lever behind the glass which shows the on/off state of the off peak. Also the red indicator near the 1/10th indicator on the meter shows which set of dials are active at the time.

As the new stat is battery operated you don’t need the blue neutral wire so put it in a separate connector out the way. Same for the green earth. Then connect the red live to the A terminal and yellow switch wire to B. Job done.

Tumbler switches were either Underslung or Overslung, AFAICR the intermediate was both! Might be wrong it was a long ,long time ago.

Yes, that’s the ones Flameport. Used to reverse the polarity of a battery when I was about 8 playing with batteries and bulbs.. £2 for a dozen phew. Did we have purchase tax to be added then?

I used to have a tumbler switch from the 50s that ‘‘twas intermediate.

"Once the boiler tripped for the first time, I rigged it up via an extension lead to the utility room ring main.....and it popped that too" Now I'm confused. This 10mA RCBO I presume is in a new consumer unit feeding the boiler only circuit? So are you saying when plugged into a extension lead...

Just a thought, could the 5A sockets be on a non RCD lighting circuit and bedroom sockets RCDd? Or have I read through too fast ??

And don’t forget to extend earth to new switch earth terminal.