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The second one, the push valve, has a thin black seal at the bottom, which I think is the problem.

I think I have confused things somewhat. It's the seal on the drop valve that I have cleaned up and am sure is the cause of the leak into the basin, as with this post: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=147226 :oops:

They look okay. May have another go cleaning up the washer or replacing it. It's a learning curve, isn't it.

Hi. It does stop when I push the float down, but then it starts again. It makes sense to me that the leak into the bowl means the water level drops in the cistern resulting in the need to top up the water. I haven't fitted anything else. I did clean up the rubber doughnut and will replace if...

Have checked the wingnuts and tightened. Also turned water supply down, even quite considerably, and the leak into the siphon is still happening. :?

It is close coupled and it's a leak between the cistern and pan. The donut washer is rubber, which is what I've just cleaned. Think it's been a bit quieter since then actually. Will check when going to bed in a minute. Will check the nuts. I guess I could buy a replacement rubber washer, but...

Thanks. There's definitely a slight leak into the siphon. It's a push button operated toilet flush with the flush valve a big blue thing made by Pacific. I've taken it out and cleaned off the residue off the rubber seal but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. EDIT: There's a leak but...

I have installed a bottom entry Torbeck valve to fix the previous and now defunct brand. After flushing the water level settles but then quiet often there is a dull humming sound that only ceases if I readjust the float. But often the dull sound starts again and I have to repeat the process. I...

It is stud, but I think I might just leave the old one, although I'm a bit scared to use it now. Learned a few new things today, though, which is always good (not sure what dot'n'dab is though, ha!). Thanks for your help and suggestions. The 4-wire idea is a keeper for the future.

There's not much slack on the cables, so I'm just about managing to get the wires into their relevant holes - too much movement results in at least one of the wires coming loose and popping free. But I will go and have another try using your suggestion of pre-bending them. Thanks for your help...

I think it's that there are so many wires that it's creating a sort of net affect at the back of the socket. Will check the lugs though. There's three 2.5mm cables. Not sure of the depth of the backbox, about a couple of inches.

Having real problems changing a plug socket. I have attempted to change a single white plastic one for a fancier chrome one. After much effort this attempt has failed, as once all wired up, I can’t seem to get the new socket to move back far enough within the plate box so I can then put the...

Thanks, I thought it might be the wiring. Will call him back and report back.

Hi there. It is a 3-port valve system. As far as I am aware, the water comes on the same way as it does in the winter, with a digital timer/control that has one side for CH and one for HW for what times it comes on and how often, etc: the difference now is that in the morning I want hot water...

I have a thermostat in the hallway and a thermostat on the hot water cylinder. The problem I have is that the hallway thermostat seems to dominates the hot water one – i.e. if the water temp is below the required 55/60 degrees, the boiler won’t heat the water when required UNLESS the temperature...

thanks. that did it.

One of my interior doors is shut and the gubbins in the doorhandle has shattered so the latch won't turn. How the hell do I get the door open now?

Thanks Zampa. Do you mean wet it and wipe it or just wet it?