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@stem Sorry just noticed your message before I posted the final comments. So, yesterday, I took the hot water inlet pipe out of the pump after running the usual process of isolating cold water inlet and running a few hot water taps / shower dry. As soon as the flexible hot water inlet hose from...

Thanks you all for the replies. I agree a flange would have been the best solution. I actually need pump replacing from a positive head to a negative head as the flow rate from overhead tank to the cylinder is not enough to trigger the pump on the hot water side.. therefore only cold water is...

Thanks Stem. I forgot to mention that the hot water line is indeed attached to the pump hence it's on the lower side of the cylinder. Now, given that the whole house 'HOT' water is supplied via pump only, the pipe going up from the top of the cylinder is only leading to the vent only and not...

Hi, I have a vented cylinder where hot water outlet pipe is going from the side (marked as blue in picture) of the cylinder and the expansion water pipe is going from the top (marked with red) which is not feeding hot water but just the expansion pipe leading to the gravity fed tank above...

will give it a go tomorrow.. thanks for your replies.

Yep.. that's what I have

So no neutral wire needs to be attached to PIR sensor then? I have installed another PIR sensor in past which needed Live, N and switched Live to lamp but this one has only two so bit confused. Should I leave the supply neutral attached to load neutral as it is now and just swap the two wires...

Hi, I am looking to replace the normal light switch (on/off flick button) with this PIR switch (with On / Off / PIR / MIC sensor) as shown in picture E4 and need bit of help in confirming the wiring as this diagram has confused me. New PIR sensor has only two slots for wire labelled as 'AC'...

Okie.. FCU is the way forward then. Thanks all for the replies and suggestion.

and tbh.. I don't mind putting a switched fused spur .. just wanted to avoid the hassle of turning the whole ring circuit off, adding additional boxes in the wall etc. So if above suggested method (using 3 pin plug) is no go.. then I'll go with this method.

So what is the proper way? Using a back box for controller or putting cables behind the plaster board is no problem. The only question remains here is.. instead of spurring off the cable from back of socket and adding additional double pole isolation switch between power supply and controller...

Thanks.. I'll go ahead and do it then. I guess during selling, if buyer is too concerned about it, I can simply chop off the cable and let it be used as a simple underlay for the flooring :) Of course I won't be living in the house so let new owner to decide if he wants underfloor heating or not.

Fair enough... so is that an issue running it from socket in that case?

I thought I was incompetent :LOL::LOL: I don't know why 'copea' thinks it has to be notified under part P as what I am proposing is simply plugging in the underfloor heating to the electric socket.. similar to plugging in a room heater to the socket. I am not opening / altering / adding any...

Thought about all that and with the current situation, electric underfloor is better even if it is costly to run. Any answers on the original question of using socket with 3pin plug to run heating?

Hi, I am planning to put underfloor electric heating in Kitchen (8m2 - 1120watt) which seems fairly straight forward with my current DIY skills. Just need to confirm if I can run the power to electric heating (using thermostat) via 3 pin plug in one of the available socket in the kitchen...

any suggestions guys or the intended setup I specified looks OK? Understood all about danger of 3amp and I am proposing mainly in case of short circuit, fuse blows up quickly enough than buring wire etc Necessary safe guards are provided by RCBO at the end unless you think otherwise and have...

I edited the post as I meant to say 30 watts. However fuse size is not of a concern here.. just mentioned that in case if it will provide any safety as opposed to using default 13amp fuse or no fused plug.

Yep.. understood that .. hope RCBO will will take care of that before situation of electric shock arises.

Thanks for your quick reply. All garden lights are setup by certified electricial using swa and glands. Well, spike lights comes with soft black cable (non armoured cable) which are connected to one single SWA cable using IP55 junction box with glands and magic gel inside. Junction box, swa...