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I'm building my extension with Celcon standard 3.6N blocks both inside and out with a fully filled 100mm cavity. I'm using stainless steel ties at 450mm centers vertically and 600mm horizontally. I've read a number of threads about settlement causing aerated blocks to crack. This hasn't been...

External wall cracking

Great - thank you both for your replies. I'll stick with the runner for this extension as I've already bought the timber/timber hangars. When I come to build the extension on the other side of the house I'll think again. Cheers.

Still building the extension and now approaching first floor level. One end of the floor joists will sit in hangars on the new masonary wall, the other ends will sit in hangers nailed to a 50mm x 250mm timber runner fixed to the existing house wall. Many months ago during the BCO's last visit...

It's worth checking with the surveyor that he does actually think the damp is originating from the outer leaf and being transmitted inside via a blocked cavity - but it does read that way to me. I've actually had some experience of this with my last house. Damp patches started to appear on...

Remember me, the OP????? I thought this was a site where amateurs like me could ask advice from professionals like you. I specifically said I was more comfortable laying to a line and speed was definitely not an issue. The advice I recieved from ------ Woody Gangman Noseall NS215...

Hi, it's the OP again. All this advice has been really great it's enabled me to make a decision. I'm going to invest in a pair of Blakes external building profiles (best price I can get is £130 which I think is OK as I've another extension to build on the other side when this one's...

Hi, I'm part way through building an extension. I've reached eaves level and now need to build the gable wall (10.5m long at the base and 3m high at the peak with a movement joint in the outer leaf). So far, I've been happy building up the corners using a level/ storey board then filling in...

Thanks for the prompt responses. I think I've confused everyone, I should have made it clear that I'll be left with the 13mm shortfall in height after I'd layed a 10mm mortar bed. The actual gap I'm trying to fill is 23mm without copromising the strength of the wall. As for the padstones...

I'd appreciate some advice please. I'm building a two storey extension which is going OK and I'm approaching first floor level. There's a 2.4M opening which is spanned by a concrete lintel on the outer leaf and a steel universal beam set on padstones on the inner leaf (as per the SE's...

The house plans should still be on file with your Local Planning Authority and you are entitled to view them on request. You will not be able to aquire a set for yourself (as they will be copyrighted) unless you approach the originator. However, I suggest you don't waste your time as the...

That's great - thanks a lot.

Thanks again for the clarification. I've got it now (I think?) except for one thing (sorry for being dense) --- I'd always assumed the slate used would be a relatively thin section that would be forced in between the brick and the new mortar joint somehow but if I understand you correctly I now...

Thanks a lot for the quick response. Is the slate pushed in immediately after the brick has been replaced or should I let the mortar 'firm up a bit' first. Also, where exactly should the slate be installed within the mortar joint - top, bottom or middle?

I'm building a pitched roofed extension that will abut the gable wall of the existing house. I'll need to fit a cavity tray into the existing wall above where the new roof will meet it. I'd considered dismantling the outer leaf of the existing wall to below the new roof level and then...

Again, thanks for your comments. I had intended to specify load bearing lintels when I placed the order. I'm trying to achieve a couple of things with this arrangement. Firstly, I want to use independant lintels on the inner and outer leaves of the cavity wall to minimise cold bridging. The...