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Turn off as many radiators as you can, leave one open and see if the pump can clear any airlocks. Also check the small tank in the loft, checks it's not hot. If it is you've mostly likely got a blockage.

Openning the filling loop will not flush the system, you need chemicals and a Powerflush Machine :)

There's good boiler and there's bad ones, same with cars. Meh..

Rip it out and replace it with a Gas Fire :) You can't modify the existing appliance with a different front, plus all the GlowWorm fires looked dated, even when new :lol:

Might help if you take a picture of the boiler with the control access panel open. Theres a few different versions of SpaceSaver's The GC number someone listed uses a different gas valve :)

If there's no terminal then it'll 100% unsafe

I have a wad of Certificates that say I'm qualified to do my job. Refers to the holder as a Operative, but also qualified in Domestic Natural Gas Maintenance, LPG qualifications, Unvented etc. Whats the big issue of been refereed to as a Engineer or Technician. I call my self both a...

Mmm, I'll be a Halstead Best or Gold, Wicks Specials :lol: They are getting on a bit now, if the flues rotten theres little that can be done now.

Which boiler do you have? I suspect the pump is driven via the boiler as it's not wired to you actuator.

Funny question, has the pump been changed recently? Or have the pump valves been touched?

This is confusing the hell out if me, going to have to read this several times. Quoting different brands of thermostats and actuators means nothing! The wiring is the same underneath, unless it's a motor open motor close system or 4 wire. I'll read this and give my professional input, not a...

Short of it is... you can't. Plus all options are dated.

The Combi 80 has a drain point to the right hand of the pump housing, just isolate the boiler.

They need to take the boiler off the wall and repipe it correctly, a blind man could do a better job of those pipes. And going around the flue elbow like that :shock: Did they wear spurs on their boots? It'd be tidier job if that ran the pipes straight up into the ceiling without that dodge...

That would be a good idea, you've now done everything we'd expect the customer to do. :)

Turn the valve on the left to open, so the screw driver is in line with the pipe. Watch the gauge until it reaches 1bar, turn valve off so the screw driver is now across the pipe when you have 1bar showing The valve on the right is a none return valve, water can flow though in only one...

Yes the venturi can be removed without having to touch any gas carrying parts. It's spring loaded, the ones I've seen have split causing the spring to fall out. If it's broken the tap has to be on full rate to even get the diaphragm to lift. Can always check the pipes before cracking the nut...

The two differential pipes to and from the diverter valve connect to the hydro block on the right side of the boiler. Within that block there will be a venturi, it's more than likely thats shattered, without it you won't get a pressure difference in the pipes so no movement in the diaphragm...

Check your small water tank it the loft, check its full of water, itll probably be mucky. If that's full attach a hose to a central heating drain point, drain off some water and see if the tank in the loft refills, if it doesn't you have a blocked cold feed. Easy to unblock, I'll tell you more...