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Plastering sand or fine sharp sand mixed with pva works ..

Could well be old original lath & plaster , have you checked ?

So long as the floor is level you should be fine to tile straight on top. The advice these days is to put a DPM (damp proof membrane) down to stop excessie moisture getting to the floor but it's expensive and your adhesive might not stick to it so you might need a screed aswell. If your old...

Sorry never heard of keraflex maxi !! sounds like a flexible tile adhesive (which you definately do not need on a solid subfloor) A standard adhsive is required. I gather your subfloor is solid ? The type of adhesive required is always dependant on the subfloor, tell us that and you might get...

Probably a thick paint that is "lead based" hope you wore your mask.. not quite lethal but still unhealthy.. Very common if victorian housing.

A DPM underlay would be quicker, easier and less expensive. The links didn't work so not sure what you were looking at except B&Q which i'd avoid. Most places that sell wood flooring will sell decent DPM underlay.

You could prime the bitumen and lay a 50mm sand/cement screed (sharp sand @ 5 to 1 cement. Then lay a poured screed over the top of all for level. Really need to see the levels for correct advice tho>>

As a self employed person yourself, i think you had a good idea that £250 was extremely cheap labour. You get what you pay for !!

As a self employed person yourself, i think you had a good idea that £250 was extremely cheap labour. You get what you pay for !!

All of this sounds expensive !! a simple 3mm screed on top of the tiles is all you need. Lay a laminate as opposed to vinyl and use DPM underlay... Easy !!

Ideally you need a liquid dpm (damp proof membrane) on the concrete side then an adhesive to fix. You can nail to existing timber at the same level. If your joiner has nailed to concrete, it will have to be removed at least as far back as the timber.. and glued down. All sounds a bit dodgy...

Go to www.f-ball.co.uk for the correct info, primer and screed.

PVA wood glue..

If you tap just above and below the crack it should sound quite hollow and sound more dense (solid) on the actual crack itself. If there is a joist behind the crack then it doesn't look like the plasterboard joint has taped. Both could be repaired quite easily with a a stop bead, screws...

You should get away with a primer and floor screed so long as the subfloor is solid. Check here www.f-ball.co.uk for the correct screed to use.

Theres pro's and con's to both but you can do either.. For best results tile before fitting. The only real con to this is you use more tiles so slightly more expensive but you will avoid any problems such as fitting free standing appliances, plinths etc.

Not sure if this is the best idea i've heard of !! If you are going to break up existing concrete floor why not use kingspan insulation and sand/cement screed ? You are basically laying two seperate floors here, twice the work and twice the cost.. plus you still have to incorporate the...

I would do as john says but screw and/or nail either side of the crack beforehand or it will just blow again.

I assume this was part of a damp course treatment ? Have you had a damp course installed and did the limelite contain waterproofer ? It's unlikely to be because of your mist coat as salts on the skin are born out of moisture passing through the wall and the salts are left as a deposit...

It sounds to me that if the moisture problem is so high up the chimney breast, then it's probably penetrating damp (rain water ) even more so considering the remainder of the chimney breast is external. Check your pointing for anything obvious. If the chimney isn't used any more it may need...