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Hi All, I have some cupboard doors (airing cupboard, under stairs etc) that I want to replace. It does not look easy to find such doors and as the current ones are in rubbish condition I am going to make some new ones up. I only want plane doors, not fancy trim etc, just a plain white door...

[/url] Thanks, thought grab adhesive might do it, I have loads at home so I will put it on tonight.

Hi, I am installing my bathroom and the bath/shower are next to the external window. As a result I have opted to install a piece of marble across the window sill (which is made of cement). I now need to glue the marble in place prior to the walls being tiled and I am wondering what to use...

Hi, I am replacing the doors in my house. The property is a 3 storey terrace with no loft conversion. None of the existing doors are fire rated apart from the old Garage door, but that room has been converted into a study. My carpenter noted that if I am replacing the doors then the ground...

Thanks for the information. I will avoid PVA as you suggest. It will be tough to get it flat, worst case I have a large orbital sander which I used for all the walls which I could use to level the surface out. J.

Hi all, I have just finished the mist coat in my house, and I have one 8 meter wall that was plastered in two halves. I thought that I had already filled and sanded the gaps in the join properly, but in bright sunlight there are two clear shadows of about 2-3 cm wide running up the wall...

Hi, I have a wall that is being difficult. I posted in the plastering area but realise this may be more related to decorating as I am looking for advice on paint. Can any of you help? http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/flacky-plaster-or-paint-what-to-do.423115/

Reading around there seems to be a lot of suggestions of using Zinsser Bulls Eye on problematic walls. Does anyone know if this would be useful in my case?

probably worth noting that when I say that I will undercoat and then apply two coats of emulsion, I mean that I will put a further watered down (probably 80% emulsion) white coat of paint on. This is as I have some parts of the walls that are back to the plaster where I have sanded and smoothed...

Hi all, I am fairly new to plastering and have come up on an issue. I skimmed 5 rooms of my house, ceiling and walls and had no problem. The last wall that I undertook was down my stairway. Long story short I got cocky and 90% down the wall ran out of plaster. Having quickly mixed another...

Cool, the skirting isn't on yet as I was saving that for after it is painted. If is just spotting that I need to worry about then I think I can manage.

A quick question if I may. I am renovating my house. For reasons that it is not worth mentioning, I would like to do the preparation of the woodwork (sills and architrave) prior to painting the walls. Can anyone tell me reasons why I should not knot seal and prime the wood prior painting the...

Hi, I have a 3 storey town house which has a utilities riser containing the pipes for hot/cold water and the waste pipe for the house. The riser goes from the attic right to the ground floor and I have noticed that there is a large amount of cold air coming into the house from the attic. I...

Blimey, in which case I am sure to be condemned to eternal damnation! Every appliance seems to come with them these days and I am definitely not going to replace them all :-)

so it seems like the main issue that I have is the risk of someone putting a high load current into the hidden plug socket. As it is hidden in the floor/ceiling cavity and there are plenty of sockets in the rooms both above and below that risk is low. If I put in a lighting socket rather than a...

good point - unfortunately the power adaptor is a regular 3 pin. I guess I could put a lighting socket and then get an adaptor for the power supply. Or I could just label the socket as being low current only?

Thanks for your response. I am interested in home electronics and therefore want to understand it better. My current understanding is that the fuse on a fused spur is designed to protect the upstream cable from exceeding its limit of power draw. In this case 1.5mm cable will be used, that is...

Hi, I want to add 2 wireless rear speakers to my 5.1 surround system. I have found a piece of kit that sends/receives the audio signal, and powers the rear speakers. The unit uses 1 amp at 24v so about 24watts of power. Now I have a concealed cubby in the rear of my living room ceiling...