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Is this what you are looking for?

I think it was the 16th edition, but certainly all sockets on a TT system had to be RCD protected for the 15th edition. HTH, I'm sure others will be more specific.

Hi Pete Are these cupboard lights supposed to come on/off with the kitchen light, or are they switched separately? Are they controlled by a FCU anywhere in the kitchen?

Have you tried PAT testing the dish washer?

If board 2 is for storage radiators, is it timed to operate off-peak or even on economy7?

Wouldn't it be easier to get a double insulated outside light?

You could try extending the earth wire by using crimps or even soldering. You would need a proper crimper not the cheapo ones. Alternatively you could take it to the earth lug in the back box then another earth wire from there to the the back of the metal switch. Make sure you get a really tight...

Are they used for testing continuity/R1 + R2 light circuits?

Because you're more likely to get a shock off the metal switch if it's not earthed properly. Why do you ask?

As long as it's rated at 400W or above

AFAIK only when there is no window in the bathroom.

Is this this what you are looking for?

I hope you realise this work is notifiable to your local authority before you start work.

Depends on the size of the pump as to how much current it will need? But I would have thought so.

YES! YES! OH YES! :lol: :lol: :lol:

If they're cold water pipes not so much a problem. Although having said that they still should not be touching. If they are hot water pipes then that could be very serious and need moving away before someone gets a shock off the pipes somewhere. I take it your lights are not on a dimmer...

How much do they cost?

Have you checked the wiring in the shower unit? It could be a bad connection or overheating. What is the size of the cable?

It's OK providing you have reasonable access to the spur.

Anyone having trouble (like me) getting through on the above number given by RF should try 01243 216146 :roll: