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The doors need to be that size otherwise the corners catch on the door lining as you open them. J

Andy let me know how much of the carcase is exposed on both sides and also if any of the support shelf at the bottom and the top carcase. For these type of hinges to work you can only have the door overlaying teh carcase at the sides. Post a picture and/or sketch if possible J

Yes they are both 6mm dia by 100mm long. The * is often used in place of x as its whats on a numeric keypad in the same way as / is used rather than teh divide sign. J

Top one looks like it should clamp to the side of a door and then the sliding block is used to guide a drill when you are drilling out for a mortice lock. Like this one Second pipe vice.

So I take it you have higher than normal worktops and the door goes from U/S of worktop to floor. Provided there is no carcase above the machine opening then a "Pocket" or "Flipper" door gear will do the job but they only are made for doors upto 600 wide so you will end up with an extra 100mm...

As said the 6.0 is the diameter in mm which is about a 12 gauge screw

Can you get it cut out of a flat steel plate or even welded from two bits of flat bar and then clad with timber either side. Though as you say gluing up a few sheets of birch and then cutting the cranked member from that will liekly be strong enough, can't your engineer do the calcs for that...

If you are trying to clean up the wood by planing the faces and want to get the edges square then forget a saw and buy a planer/thicknesser. J

The best colouring to try would be Van dyck Crystals, these are made from walnut husks and you mix them into warm water, the dilution determines the darkness of colour. It won't work on an oiled surface so hopefully the area you tried oiling was just a small test patch that can be sanded...

Blockboard has the strips wider than they are deep so on an 18mm board they will be about 12x20 with a 3mm ply on each face. Then Laminboard had much narrower strips about 12mm x 5mm. You don't see the birch faces stuff that was used a lot 20-30 years ago as MDF ha staken over but you can...

Being an oily wood the Iroko will resist water far better than the oak and it won't have the tendancy to go black when water does get to it. Some people have a reaction to the wood but thats only while working with it will be fine once its in place and oiled. J

I would say those shelves are resting on shelf pegs in the uprights. If you intend to have uprights then use that method or fix through the uprights into the sid eof the shelf, this will only be OK upto a certain shelf length as once they get too long they will start to sag. One method I...

Good to hear Axi sorted you out, worth getting a replacement and another spare at that price. J

Axminster have only just stopped selling the BV20 lathe, I'd contact them to see if spares are still available http://www.axminster.co.uk/customer-services-artlcs_home/ Failing that one of the model engineering forums should get some answers http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/...

OIf you use that bracket you will need a recess in teh back of the beam to clear the plate otherwise the beam won't sit back flush to the wall. Plain round black bar will also do for the studs as the resin will stick to that like you know what. Have a look at this and the next two photos...

I use the water based flooring lacquers quite a bit which are easy to apply, did these units in the matt Aquacote from Smith & Rogers recently https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Floor_Coatings.html J

I'm with Gcol and would go as far as fitting a back to wall or wall hung pan, that will loose all pipework and the pan connector on the short wall The other wall you say the pipes cannot be lost into the wall, why? if its plasterboard you can gain 12mm by just removing the bottom strip of...

Is the infeed roller serated or rubber? the white spirit may have swelled the rubber making it slip on its shaft. Also is the table clean and waxed, a buildup of resin will make the wood stick. What are the blades like as most bitumen adhesive brings up sand fron the screed which will...

The diamond coated holesaws will just burn & clog with resin. If you have an odd bit of metal tube you can just file some small teeth into the end. J

You need to leave the keyed disc in place, fit the rubber backing disc, then the sanding sheet and finally the cone nut that came with the backing disc, you may need to push this down to depress the sanding sheet enough to start the thread. The reason for leaving the keyed disk is that has...