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Thats going to need a thick bit of cardboard if the overall is 17mm, read the first post again. The gromitt strip mentioned above is very flexible and will bend to a tight radius.

Provided you have not punctured the membrain with your scraping it will still be intact. The big question is are you going to get a good bond to it? They make a big point about keeping the cover film on the surface until you are due to tile to keep the tacky surface clean. You have now got a...

Yes sounds like tub adhesive. I've used the Impey trays with tilesafe a few times and powdered usually sticks like S**t to a blanket. Jason

The doors are not that expensive it sthings like £9K for teh sub-zero fridge and same sort of money for the Aga. If you are having mostly doors then a veneered board would actually be more stable, ideally get oak veneered moisture resistant MDF and a matching iron on real wood edgeing. Thes...

That one is actually quiet expensive, not much change out of £100K. The carcases are oak veneered MDF, dovetailed oak draws and solid 30mm european oak fronts. There is no reason you can't do something similar with shed carcases, Ikea are a bit harder to fit but the build is the same as...

If you cut to the width of each unit you may find there is only one stud behind that unit so won't get a good fixing. or worse still a 300wide unit may come between two studs as they are usually at 400mm centres :cry: Jason

Yes your site does have good prices, though you need to be looking at the external ones not internal and also add VAT which my link included. I do get a reasonable trade discount as well so not much in it in the end and I have used the company so know what their service is like rather than just...

Well if you want the cheap bus shelter look try Kee Klamp. http://www.keesystems.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=8 But do remember to sleeve any bolts with a plastic/rubber as the edge of the glass is its weakest part

I've used these people several times for various brackets http://www.prefit-fittings.com/prod_balus.html As Alarm says you should be able to get the glass from any glazier though they may not do it inhouse, it will need cutting, edge polishing and drilling before it is toughened. Jason

Look at some of the kit car and car restoration companies, they often do something like you want to edge panels first google hit gave this J

It's invisible

SF won't do the thicker plates, try ironmongery direct No you can't make the carcase a few mm narrower as the hinge is still fixed to the inside and allows the door to cover an 18mm carcase

When you come to buy your hinges get ones with a +3mm mounting plate this will make allowance for the 15mm carcase and you won't have to faff about trying to space the doors. Jason

Also whats the roof, can't tell if the timber is upto it if we don't know what its holding up. Will you be cutting rebates into those sizes or planted on beads? saftwood or hardwood? J

ake a look at pic 36, you can just see a 200mm wide vertical board running along the top/back of the carcases. This helps hold the carcases square and also gives you something to screw the backing to. The top of this board is cut to 45deg so it fits up against the sloping top board. Jason

37 shows the two MFC(melamine faced chipboard) carcase sides with a strip of 6mm MDF between that protrudes about 6mm beyond the carcase. To the left is astrip of MDF with a 6mm groove cut down the middle that when turned over will fit the strip of MDF sticking out. 38 The faceframe is MR MDF...

I'd build it a sa series of boxes and just use kitchen type hinges to hang the doors from the boxes. Fixed shelves can just be screwed from the outside of the boxed, adjustables can be done by drilling a series of 5mm holes and using shelf studs. Have a look at this and the next half dozen...

Scribe the return fillet to the wall then just a small bead of caulk. When I make cabinets like this I have the main carcase fit within the alcove and fit a second board to teh side that can easily be scribed. Jason

General rule of thumb is one year per 25mm plus a year so for your 25mm boards 2 years so around the same as you were advised. It will depend somewhat on what time of the year the tree was felled, how long between felling and milling and relative humidity where you have it stored. Yes store...

Being cedar you should be using non ferrous fixings so thats either brass or stainless steel screws. Kreg (the pocket hole people) have a nice secret screw system for decking which would suit your thicker boards, not sure if its available over here yet...