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Friction is our friend! It does work. Honest. The only difficulty is getting the things central so they don't dance across the floor Personally I tend to use the 36/ 40 grit "double disc" papers when removing latience from a levelling compound, not to sand wood. If I am using an orbital...

Sorry, missed the point of the original question. Can you float it? My thought here would be that the floor will try and work it's way to the lowest point, thus you could end up with no expansion gap at the lowest point and double the expansion gap at the top. My vote would go with some...

I would agree with IJWS15 here only if this room is a single entity. Then it could be any slope, 45 degrees for all the wood cares. If you are flowing from one flat room into this room with a slope then I would agree with Wood You Like. That said 22mm is well within levelling capabilities...

Getting an exact match to an original colour is almost impossible. I note from the instructions on Cuprinols site that you can apply multiple coats. If the colour you need to match is darker, you may find a second or third coat brings you closer. If you are already too dark it's back to the...

Not a normal practice with lacquer either! Finish to 120 or 150 grit, apply the water based primer, then cut back any grain raising, remove any dust with a vacuum and damp (tacking) cloth, then apply the top coats. Some manufacturers will require cutting back between coats, others only after a...

Wurth is a brand of product and they will make a few different types. Specifically what Nick82 is talking about are Silaines or MS Polymer type adhesives like Wurth MS or Bona R850. Bear in mind although these have some moisture proofing properties, but they should never be used as a DPM and...

With concrete of those ages and an intact DPM underneath you should have no problems without an additional DPM.

Another option would be a product called "Naturale" from Bona. It will only change the colour of the wood very slightly and has a 5% sheen (Very low). I am taking my life in my hands here because it is, Shock Horror a lacquer but that said lacquers are not as evil as many, particularly on...

Most of the gloss varnish's are around 90% sheen. I thought Ronseal was about this level but I might be mistaken. The problem with most gloss varnish is keeping them looking glossy over time. The best solution, although it takes ongoing effort. is a gloss floor polish and burnish (buff) a shine...

Once sanded a small room only takes 20 minutes to lacquer, once you have sorted an applicator (I would suggest a medium pile roller not a sponge). When dry, 1-3 hours depending upon the product, you would then need to remove any grain raising with a light abrasive paper by hand, remove dust...

Hi Wayne First you need to find out if moisture is present. If it is, and you do not sort it every thing you do could be money down the drain. I use a box Hydrometer similar to this one. http://www.f-ball.co.uk/product_detail.asp?product=Digital%20Hygrometer&catID=damp If there is moisture...

No you do not necessarily have to re-level the floor. If you do put another level on top of the DPM how will it stick? With the Epoxy resin type DPM (the ones that go like glass) they have to have grit spread in them for a levelling compound to stick. (Some use a primer) The first question is...

Hi Normally gaps would be filled before sanding and then sanded back to be smooth and then over coated with a finish. Bona Mix and Fill good for 1-2mm gaps, if you can put up with the smell Lecol 5500 will do larger gaps up to 5mm, but both of these need the wood dust to be mixed in. I have...

How big are the gaps? Are you sanding the floor or is this retro maintenance? What have you tried and how has it failed? A bit more info and I will try to help.

Go back to Floors 2 Go and complain. After only 5 weeks use it sounds like a manufacturing defect. Don't do anything to the floor yet. They need to see the problem.

Hi Eldred. Have to concur with WoodYouLike here that solvent based adhesives are not suitable for use any where Bitumen is present. The solvent tends to re-soften the bitumen so you get a very tenuous grip. Combine that with under floor heating and you have a problem waiting to happen. Most...

Try Hirecentres.com in Warwick. I know they have one and they have delivered to Gloucester so I am sure they will go to Manchester.

I agree with WoodYouLike except that if your product on the floor is varnish/lacquer you need a lacquer refresher product rather than on oil refresher. Try http://bona.com/corporate/corporate/Products/Professional/BonaMaintenance/Bona-Freshen-Up/url][/url]

Hi Paul-Man Always worth re-finishing wood boards if at all possible, although while you are doing it you will wish you had gone for the Lino option. 1/ Do you want to stain the boards as this always complicates matters? You will probably get to like the unstained colour. 2/ If you have...

Sorry, slip of the fingers http://www.duluxdecoratorcentre.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/DDCUK/ICIPaints/servlet/DDC_ProductView?parent_category_rn=370&catentryId=14538&catalogId=10005&storeId=10202&langId=-1 I only use the Dulux when my usual Bona supply is no good