Wooden floors !!! AGAIN ! Sorry.

[Itwuzntme]

Hi,

Thanks to anyone who answers my first post and hello to what looks like a friendly helpful bunch of people. I have searched and read a thousand posts on this subject and am still confused !!!

I need to install a solid wood floor (Oak) onto a concrete floor. What are my options ?

I have seen the sticky underlay stuff, but that looks like a nightmare !

Supposing my floor is nice and level (if it isn't..I will level it).

Can I simply glue directly to the sub base without a moisture barrier ?

If there is moisture present, what do I need to do in order to lay the floor ? and if there is, what is then the best method ?

There is currently some nasty looking laminate stuff down, which sounds so hollow (previous owner), I would like to have a solid sound and feel to the floor.

Thanks in advance. Why do we make these promises to the missis when we have had a skinfull over Xmas !!! Oh, and Happy 2010.

Wayne

 

[tall_tone]

Hi Wayne
First you need to find out if moisture is present. If it is, and you do not sort it every thing you do could be money down the drain.
I use a box Hydrometer similar to this one.
http://www.f-ball.co.uk/product_detail.asp?product=Digital Hygrometer&catID=damp
If there is moisture you need to protect against it using a DPM.
I use this one but there are other Epoxy Resin DPM,s around.
http://www.bona.com/corporate/corporate/Products/Professional/Fastening/Moisture-Control/Bona-R410/

The British Standard for levelness of sub floors is +/- 3mm per 3 Meters. Most manufacturers of wooden floors quotes something similar so check the specific requirements. If you need to level on top of the DPM you need to give the levelling compound something to bond to by putting sand in the final (2nd) coat of DPM. Check with the manufacturer of levelling compound exactly their requirements because most of them vary.

Hopefully you have no moisture present, and the floor is sound and level. My preferred adhesive for solid or engineered boards is Bona R850.
http://www.bona.com/corporate/corpo...al/Fastening/Silane-based-adhesive/Bona-R850/
This adhesive will work direct to a sound sub floor, onto an Epoxy DPM or the levelling compound. Does not even smell that much!

Hope this helps. Any questions please post back.

Regards
TT

 

[WoodYouLike]

If your concrete has a moist content of 2.1% or less and your solid boards are long and wider than 100mm than you can also use underlayment that includes a DPM and install your floor floating.

You should also read this: Solid Floors - what to note

 

[Itwuzntme]

Thanks TT, Great advice. Can I rent a hydrometer ? I reckon the floor will contain some moisture, it is an old 1930's semi, with solid walls, so I guess they never paid too much attention to the floors in those days !
And I am pretty sure there wont be any form of original DPM !!

WoodyouLike, that is an excellent link, thanks. Some great advice on buying the stuff and so called "good deals". I will now have all the right questions to ask, if I decide to buy online.

Will a floating floor give a more hollow sound, I would prefer to have a solid feel and sound to the floor. Which is why I would prefer the glued down method !!

Also Wood you like, do you supply the stuff..drop me a private message to discuss.

Thanks again

Wayne

 

[WoodYouLike]

For DM's we'll have to become "friends" - an email for this should be on its way to you

 

[Itwuzntme]

For DM's we'll have to become "friends" - an email for this should be on its way to you

Hi mate,

Use this email - [email protected]

Got the old 'Orrible laminate up today and the floor is indeed moist (to say the least) but has been previously levelled, so not too bad.

I guess I will need some DPM !!!

Thanks

 

[mac391]

Hi Itwuzntme,

Be carefull, if you want a solid feel to your floor over concrete, your screed has to be absolutely perfect, i.e no deviations above 1mm over a span of 1000mm (1 metre). Even with the best screeds, this is difficult to achieve. It is necessarry tho, as a spread type adhesive is usually used with a 2mm notched trowel, i hope you're with me so far, 2mm notched trowel = adhesive sinks to 1.5mm hence any dips more than 1.5mm in your floor means the floor won't make contact with the adhesive, which makes a hollow sound and your floor isn't actually stuck. Also a liquid DPM would cost approx £160.. . One quite expensive way but one that cuts the cost of a DPM is,,, Lay 1000 gauge visqueen (DPM) which is a plastic sheet then use wpb plywood 20mm as an overlay, Then you can solid fix your flooring by nailing T&G. Remember the ply has to be screwed or nailed to the concrete with a gas powered nail gun. A cheaper but less solid alternative is, 6mm ply and adhesive. What we go through for the right sound eh?? There's more if you want to know.. good luck Andy

Hi,

Thanks to anyone who answers my first post and hello to what looks like a friendly helpful bunch of people. I have searched and read a thousand posts on this subject and am still confused !!!

I need to install a solid wood floor (Oak) onto a concrete floor. What are my options ?

I have seen the sticky underlay stuff, but that looks like a nightmare !

Supposing my floor is nice and level (if it isn't..I will level it).

Can I simply glue directly to the sub base without a moisture barrier ?

If there is moisture present, what do I need to do in order to lay the floor ? and if there is, what is then the best method ?

There is currently some nasty looking laminate stuff down, which sounds so hollow (previous owner), I would like to have a solid sound and feel to the floor.

Thanks in advance. Why do we make these promises to the missis when we have had a skinfull over Xmas !!! Oh, and Happy 2010.

Wayne