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Because it matches EXACTLY both the boiler and fault scenario for a job I looked at today, I've revived this old thread. In today's case, the boiler was installed in late March 2010, to replace a cast-iron floor-mounted type, of about the same output (28 - 30kW). It's apparently never...

Fortunately rare - or so it seems from comments here, but I came across a failed joint yesterday. HTR supplied by 'well-known bath-seller' some years back. Apparently perfect condition but drip from T joint linking bottom rail to vertical tube. Fooled me initially because the slow drip fell...

Hi I notice way back you had a run-in with Bathstore (??) over a leaking towel rail. Did you ever get anywhere with a free replacement? (on the face of it, their going-in position blaming 'too much inhibitor' and 'agressive water' was, as you remarked, complete b**locks, but sometimes the...

Yeah.... and if the top part of the (vertical?) pipe got cold and froze, then there'd be an ice plug preventing any further discharge - and the boiler goes BANG! Don't do it!

No it doesn't! It's powered from the boiler. There is no battery.

I can hear the distant sound of Blues and Twos already!!!! Presumably this 'spray booth' could contain highly flammable paint /solvent vapour.... Any combustion-type heater potentially exposed to this obviously needs to be managed with a lot of care! How are the flames in the burner and...

Eventually, I managed to get a hose onto the open ends of the pipework and flushed back towards the softener. Since the main feed ran via the loft and the blockages were on the ground floor, this probably would not have worked by itself. As it happened, there was a third nearby connection that...

The basic idea of room stat(s) isto control the BOILER so that it provides heat until ALL the building is warmed up. With no TRVs, in theory the flows through the rads should be balanced and the rads themselves sized accurately, so that all the rooms warm up nicely (with the doors shut) and...

The key facts about pump nuts: - Mostly, they sieze because the cast-iron pump threads have corroded. - The brass nut doesn't really corrode itself and usually is not actually attached via its htreads to the iron. The commonest problem in undoing it (IMHO) is that the nut itself is...

Further information from softener resin supplier is that there is no realistic solvent for resin. They suggest that if water flushing doesn't work, compressed air MAY be effective. We'll see. Otherwise it's new pipes.

Yup - already tried it! And then went on to try 7 Bar from a test bucket, to no greater benefit!!!

No - as the pipes are behind fitments, tiles and under a tiled floor!! Also - if 7 Bar of push won't work, 1 Bar (physical absolute max) of suck is unlikely to make any impact. (There has to be significant MOVEMENT of water or air to shift the beads. This can't happen through the blockage.)

Here's a new one! Customer called me with no hot water and no water in some WC cisterns. Kitchen tap OK. When I got there, I found water softener (ion-exchange) resin in the pipework downstream from the water softener. It had got EVERYWHERE. Since it is made of consistent-sized small...

Join ARGI, get involved,and you'll have an opportunity to lean on GasSafe from a greater height! ARGI has not yet taken on Trading Standards however. Maybe something to consider - given your current Grief!

There's more to this than meets the eye. If the green light on the receiver is lit it means either the transmitter has called for heat OR you've found the receiver with its Red light on (no contact from transmitter for x minutes) and pressed the Override button. Either way, with the Green light...

The key to problems with RF Digistats is the red LED on the Receiver (the box wired to the boiler). It should flash every few minutes, indicating that a transmission has been received from the transmitter. If it's solid -on, it indicates that contact has been lost and nothing received from the...

No Given it's a standard 3-speed pump, try it on the lowest speed (1). Then check what flow-rate you're getting through the floor loops - should be 1 to 2 litres per minute in each loop. (different UFH suppliers recommend differing rates in that range.) I can't immediately visualise what...

VERY dependent on which boiler - and you didn't say!!!

...assume you have checked that the pump is the right way round! (arrow on pump casing pointing upwards.)

You need to stop the warm, moist air from the room reaching the cold concrete roof surfaces. Presumably, there's no vapour barrier between room and insulation layer. Fit one. Cheapest option is perhaps a single piece of polythene DP membrane held in place by plasterboard sheets attached to...