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I’ve checked again. Base plate adjusted so blade is 90° to it. But the back of the blade is 1-2mm further out from the edge of the sole plate compared to the front of the blade. How do I adjust this?

I completely agree. During secondary school, we did a project using entirely hand tools - plane, saw, hand drill etc. I was crap at it then and I’m still crap. Yes, it takes practice and whilst I would love to develop skills like Paul Sellers, I simply haven’t got the time. My most complicated...

I have a tendency for my cut line to waver. I normally resort to a mitre box where possible. Very true. But they help fools like me manage to do some basic work.

Making a raised bed. Sleepers were 2400mm long and needed to be cut to size. Because I’d left them out for so long, the surface had weathered a bit before I got a chance to use them. I wanted to clean them up a bit prior to using some outdoor wood treatment stuff. Sanding was taking forever even...

I did the first sleeper. Three passes at 0.2mm setting seemed to get the fresh wood underneath. Sanding with random orbital sander and P80 helped with any steps/unplanned areas. My only issue now is crosscuts. Using a speedsquare and pencil gives me a line around the circumference that is...

1mm at most. I tried to sand and couldn’t get a decent finish. The sleepers had been left outside uncovered for a few weeks until I got some time off. Was hoping to shave off a tiny amount, sand smooth and then use some wood preserver before fitting in the garden.

200x100x2400mm green oak sleepers. I need to plane off a tiny amount each surface . Makita DKP181 has 85mm wide planing blade. I was going to use the guide to plane Along the left and right edges of the timber, but what do I do with the 30mm in the centre. Just freehand?

7mm

497x497mm

I have some PVC garage floor tiles that I bought. I’m cutting the tiles for the edges. Jigsaw blade keeps wandering, even against a square edge. It gives a burred edge despite being a blade suitable for PVC. Circular saw works fine up until about halfway through the tile when it binds and kicks...

Already done and it took me longer than a weekend. Had to repoint the brickwork (having never done anything like that before), spray with stabilising solution, two coats of paint. Took me about three weeks, a few hours every few days.

I think you are meant to dig a narrow trench and pack it in, so at least 50 will be underground. The reviews say it is easily damaged by a garden strimmer.

4.5m by 2.5m garage. Walls now painted white. I will have a small workbench area, otherwise mainly for storage. Currently lit by a single 13W LED bulb (equivalent to 100W) and it’s dim. I was looking at LED batten lights and also surface mounted lights like this >>one<< Overkill? I hate...

Thanks. I was debating whether to use something like hammerite. I’d read about how some people used regular emulsion paint. The reasoning for a contrasting colour was to avoid the pipes being damaged if they were more visible. Plus I have a black-and-red theme planned for the flooring.

I’ve recently painted the garage walls in brilliant white. I thought it would be nice to paint the gas copper pipes in a contrasting noticeable colour eg red or yellow. Do I need to use a specific type of paint? Any prep work that’s needed?

Thanks. Early on I swapped over to Dewalt extreme blades (I think after a post on this forum) and prefer it over the makita.

I’ve bought some 100x200x2400 untreated oak sleepers. I will need to cut them to size. I have the DHS680 circular saw and was thinking of just doing shallow cuts on each side. Will it have enough power to cut through the oak? Or should I use another method?

Front porch was built some time after the house had been built. The brickwork inside has been painted white. I’m guessing some sort of masonary paint. It needs a refresh. Can I paint on top with big standard masonary paint or do I need any prep work?

I have a Festool CTL mini I extractor. The rubber nozzle fits well over the DBO180Z sander. But it doesn’t fit over the DTM51 nozzle. festool nozzle 35mm OD, 25mm ID Makita multitool 25mm ID, 30mm OD Any ideas for a suitable adapter?

I was denibbing with 400 grit sandpaper. Using wooster pro ultra and floetrol was an eye opener. No drag. Smooth coats. I felt like an artist. What I did do was use a purdy mini roller, roll on the paint and then use the brush to lay it off. It’s far from perfect but so much better than what...