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We're in the process of stripping the original pine floorboards (first floor) in a 1920's house. Once the process is complete, what is the best method/product to use for preserving these - wax, stain, varnish? They have already been treated for woodworm.

Does anyone have any experience with this product? We have been advised that this would be a good solution to levelling the entire existing concrete ground floor of a 1920's house.

Thanks, tried this but white spirit making no difference. Tried nail varnish remover and this took a little off but not much. It definitely appears that half the room has been actually treated with whatever it is, rather than resin as it's very distinct and the other half of the room is not...

Sanding some old floors using a belt sander, for the most part this is doing a good job. However, some areas of the floor are covered in a dark-coloured coating which just clogs the sanding belt up in no time. I've tried nitromors but this doesn't do anything. A heat gun and scraper helps but...

What about Arditex NA ? http://www.ardex.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18

We have a 1920's house, consisting of the following flooring areas- Concrete floors in the front and rear rooms. The kitchen is quarry tiled, as is a pantry/under stairs area. The hallway area is compacted concrete and ash, but is solid, although it's uneven where the old terazzo top layer had...

We have a wall with some old settlement cracks, the whole wall has been painted over with masonry paint previously, but doesn't do a great job of hiding this. Is there a thick render-like product out there which can be overpainted to hide this?

The contractor who quoted us is not listed on that website.

Hi chaps, thanks for the replies and sorry for the delay responding. To answer the question regarding signs of damp in the walls, at present no but in the wetter weather then yes there are some signs of moisture. We are getting a DPC put in across the entire ground floor as part of the...

We have an existing 1920's concrete floor with no DPM which we need to make damp proof. The remnants of the original bitumen coating can be seen in places, but most of this came up when the original floorboards were removed (these were nailed into the concrete). Approx area 49 sqm. So far...

Hi, we recently moved our washing machine while the floor was tiled. When moved back into position, it now trips as soon as the power is switched on, door not even closed or cycle started. Tried in another power outlet and same happens. Unplugged, took rear panel off and checked all wiring for...

Thanks for the replies, having a serious think now. The window style is crucial to the appeal of the house and we have a lot of respect for the original craftsmen who made these. Replacements in wood are about 15k, PVC about 10k.

Hi we have a 1920s house and pretty much all the windows need either replacing or repairing. Looking for some advice on what best to do. We really want to save the existing windows if we can, but they will all need new sills as a bare minimum as they are totally rotten. We're staring down the...

We have a house which was built in 1925 and there are 3 main stormwater drains serving the guttering downpipes from the roof. There always seems to be a set level of water showing in each, assume this is normal as flushing with a hose they seem to drain away fine but you never see them drain...

Ok think we've found the answer here http://www.fixmyroof.co.uk/videos-and-guides/bay-window-roof/lead-bay-roof/

Hi we have a 1920's house and have discovered that the leaded roof of the front bay window has been leaking. The interior plasterboarding underneath has become damp so we've removed the whole lot to understand the extent of the problem. Not sure whether the lead has cracked, or whether water...

We've got two doors which have leaded windows in the upper half of the door, fitted with stained glass. We want to get them stripped but worried about the glass. The dip and strip process uses a caustic solution rather than chemical. Would imagine it's best to remove the windows first but no...

Thanks, much appreciated. I want to understand why there would be issues with damp, if replacing the floor without digging down so far? There weren't any damp issues previously.

Crikey, how much is that likely to cost for 10m2 would you estimate? Would would happen if the tiles were just laid directly onto a concrete/sand mix?

Not sure what you would call the old floor, basically a solid slab as per pic below. Planning on laying the following http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310797875421?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT