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Bought the airex seal from Toolstation, and some stem washers. Might be false economy but I'll give them a go tomorrow. If not I suppose it's £65 - £70 for a syphon, and aspirator. The standard donut is no use for this toilet though. I may have to reuse the old one for the moment. It is...

Thanks Obviously the donut has seen better days, as has the lower seal. What is that seal called and where do I get one I think the flush washer has also gone so probably need to replace that as well

Our toilet has just started to leak at the close couple join. I have assumed it will be a new close couple rubber donut - or complete kit if it has rusted - that is needed, but as the toilet is an old symphonic, is that coupling different? Don't want to take the loo apart on a bank holiday and...

House was built in 1926 Meter pit other side of the drive to the internal entry point so would have to go under the drive anyway So it so it sounds like I need to call in a professional then

its looking like we have a leak in the water supply Pipe from meter to internal stopcock. Assuming it is copper pipe (and I don't know yet because it's under the drive) is there anything special about replacing damaged pipe? I'm ok with a blow torch and solder but is that good enough if the fix...

Not sure why you think making the cutouts for the backbox in Kingspan/Celotex/other make is difficult or messy. I'll assume you use all the correct ppe to do this and cover merely the process which works well for cuts up to about 2/3 depth of insulation. - Mark the shape. - Take a snapoff or...

Perhaps should have been more specific. The bathroom is on the lighting circuit but at the end of the serial . The switch is simply a power disconection to the whole bathroom. From the single cable out it stars to the lights and to the shaver point light and to an FCU that further isolates the...

Our bathroom lighting, shaver socket and extractor fan is at the end of the upstairs lighting cicuit, but isolated from the rest of the 1st floor via a switch. I assume that was an easy way of doing it when the bathroom was done by the previous owners. Its and old plastic toggle switch which has...

Ah, yes I mis read the original post. Even so that's still approx 1.5 cu meters being heated unnecessarily which a couple of quid would stop and make the rooms more efficient to maintain temperature.

Tony, sorry misunderstood, but thanks fo rthe advice. Generally can be available during the day so that shouldnt be a problem. Just need to find someone local now.

Whay are you not insulating in the void when you have the chance? The lights I linked to have the advantage that you can lay insulation directly on them

I used these for a low ceiling https://www.downlightsdirect.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/l/e/le440-ch_1.jpg Not dimmable, but better light than LED and lower consumption than halogen

Tony, many thanks for the offer that sounds a great price. Unfortunately for me I am at work in Portsmouth tomorrow

Thanks for that reply. At that price I'd certainly consider it to save having a hole in the carpet over the square valve end. This looks like a steel pipe, and I dont care if the pipe stays, just would like the valve level or below floorboards

I know that requests for estimates are not sensible, and I'm not expecting one here. What I would like is to get a feel for cheap, med, expensive without wasting trades time quoting for a small job. Cnat see the point is someone wasting fuel to look at it and say it easy but expensive due to...

Many thanks for the replies. Lathes are a mixture of in line and slightly proud. As it meets a corner, ad that return is short up to the door frame in similar state brick, is it worht dot and dabbing board over that to form a neat corner for the spreader. Or am I over engineering it?

We had a leak which has required replacing the ceiling and plaster on a couple of walls. But one of the the walls is a mixture of stdwork and brick. Currently there is lathes on the studwork and plaster went across these (see pictures) The question is is it best to leave as is and plaster...

Well that certainly would be easier for me, but the reason I thought that simply splayed would be a problem is the corner protection and angle beads. A bit more work for mto make it easier for the plasterer is OK. But if I really dont need to worry about the corners being 90 degrees (nearly)...

Having insulated the old loft conversion properly I have been putting up plasterboard prior to get the plasterers in. Now I want to make it as easy as possible, so not sure the best way to board around Velux window recesses. Rather than try and describe what I mean I have knocked up a simple...

The boards I took down were nailed and were Artexed which probably dates them pretty well