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very true, only small areas will have skirting as its going to be mainly kitchen cabinets, but i could run skirting all around i guess

One other question is that when the DPM is lapped up the walls, how is the room generally finished i.e plastered? The kitchen walls are all currently plastered and were due some bonding fills and reskim, how would the DPM lap work, would all plaster need to come off or is there another way for...

Yeah ok, so I'll just go with 10-20mm and likely 130mm of MOT1 which would compact down to 100mm hopefully. Then 150mm for the PIR insulation and 100mm for concrete. I'm thinking 70mm for screed, but I need to check for UFH as that would be dry, but probably less for liquid depending on cost

would 10mm of sand be ok or does it need to be 50mm?

I was questioning if the mot1 layer could be reduced to 100mm potentially, but ill aim for 150mm insulation. Good call on the probe before screed

I'm hoping to dig out my solid kitchen floor at the weekend to retrofit insulation and wet ufh. In terms of depths the current guidance seems to be https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1081194/solid-floor-insulation-best-practice.pdf...

So I'm retrofitting insulation throughout and also putting in wet underfloor heating. In addition I've taken some internal walls out to make a larger kitchen which were at different finished floor levels so needs to be sorted and wanted to max the benefits of ufh with insulation as an overlay...

We're thinking about having our windows replaced in the next year, and mentioned the sills we have look dated and if the local window company would be able to sort and the chap suggested it's not something they would do and it needs a builder. I'm assuming that he means the tiles (if that's what...

So I'm about to dig out my solid kitchen floor which has an air duct/pipe going under it and comes out on the external kitchen wall. This is because there is some suspended flooring in the property, and there is also the same duct/airbrick at the front of the property. I've dug out a small core...

So I'm trying to retrofit wet ufh into my 1969 house, 70% of the floor is suspended and so I'll be insulating that and doing a structural routed board for the piping, the kitchen is however solid, 12cm concrete over a dpm and then hardcore. There is an airbrick on the external wall of the...

Yeah another good option potentially, I'd assume the PIR would slide over into situ without too much issue

I like Sounds like a good idea, not sure there is enough room to be able to hammer them in or screw from the underside still, but maybe a right angle fitment on my cordless screwdriver might work. I'll have a play tomorrow to see if there is space. I guess roofing battens or similar would do...

Thanks, I don't think building control approve of that approach any more as it's not as robust but I can check, thanks.

So after lifting floor boards I've found that my joists for suspended floor (ground floor) are 100mm deep. I'm planning to lay wet UFH using a structural board later on, so want to maximise the depth of PIR into the gap between joists. Building control have already been around and are happy with...

Yeah sorry it would be a combi

Any boiler suggestions? I thought the 8000 was a pretty good boiler, I had looked at the Viessmann 200

So the current plan is to have a 40kw 8000 with two zone valves, one to cover the downstairs wet underfloor heating which will have room thermostats and call the boiler via the wiring center. The second zone valve for upstairs radiators as a single zone with one thermostat. I'd thought about...

Anyone, I guess I'm not asking a sensible question>?

So I've asked a roofer who is about to DPM the flat roof of our dormer to also add insulation to form a warm roof as this was called out as an issue in the survey so whilst rennovating a little it would be good to tackle. That then leaves the cheeks and roof underside as per the following...