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Could I tunnel it all out then ask them to come in and plug it in? That should be a lot cheaper right? Does the branch leading to the secondary stop tap count as a "main"? I would expect it branches after the water boards connection to the property and so therefore would be mine?

Is it possible to dig them out non-destructively DIY? Some sort of tunnelling device? I've got two. One is the real main and if it has to stay then it has to stay but if there's a DIY relatively non-destructive way to get rid of it and put in the plastic for the water bods to link up I'd give...

And it's electrons. I think I can make my orbital do what was described above and have a scotchbrite to try it with.

No, When I first saw it, I t hought that must be it, but the chimney is the complete opposite side of the building it's just a hot water tank (verfified by dropping objects down, they arrive near where a boiler used to live) and the rafters don't even touch it. Or I could be completely...

I want a tool that does this, it would be good if I could mod my dremel to do it or I'm gunna have to be lazy and finish cleaning that floor by hand.

I have a great big bit of wall sticking down into a room which had at least been converted into built in storage. Anyway, when I noticed the "wall" was a weird pyramid like it had "corbelled" and the "wall" was a piece of drywall hiding it, I wondered if I could safely take the whole lot out to...

Thanks pal and I had read that site, still I was wondering if it was possible to be a little bit naughty on occasion and remove more than is sensible (without going crazy) if you had a product like the one you recommended I call (and I will) in this post of yours.

You know I think I read this procedure described in spy novel once done by a lady at a Russian guest house, but they didn't explain what the materials being used were.

I don't mean that it tells you how to do all the trades. I mean how it is constructed. Where the foundation is, how deep it is, what it is made of, where DPC goes, how thick screeds are, how thick joists need to be, the way they are connected to the wall (if it's a good book both that old way...

How much of the wall (load bearing) is it safe to remove for horizontal channels and vertical channels. Also what's a safe size cavity (boxed back in of course) to leave in there for allowing access to some plumbing fixings at a later date. If you have a link to building regulations type info...

It's a personal thing, I just don't like seeing the pipes on the floor. I want them all to come out of the wall. I had a really naughty plan to just channel up a short way from the floor with John Guest then use brass compression fittings in a little hollow in the wall so I could have chrome...

Is it possible to fill with some material that will meld with the brick somehow better than say cement and add extra strength back to the channel you hacked?

There is drywall which got quite dusty when someone decided to start chopping up slates with an angle grinder in the room. Cheers pal. Anyway. I'm no spread so how much does it matter? I'm guessin it matters cause I can see it, it's not too bad just few black lookin patches. What are the...

What silicone is the best to use :D

Nobody told Readers Digest or B & Q. They both said use the plastic.

I bookmarked the view my own posts so I can see if people have replied to me without looking in my e-mail. A good option to have would be to be able to view only those threads you posted in that people have posted in after you did last.

These things are past their shelf-life and need replacing but I can't afford it just yet. I don't care how crap it looks (give the Jonses something to yap about) but I want the draft to stop! Is there a good solution? I thought about spraying polyurethane foam around them but it looks ugly...

The guy at the shed and one of my DIY books says you need two plastic washers when fitting a tap. I fitted a tap as described, one plastic washer between tap and top of sink and another between back nut and bottom of sink. The tap would NOT sit still. I could not stop it moving left or...

I have to live with this room like it is for a while. Some idiot who may have been me or may not decided it would be a good idea to start ripping off the vinyl tiles so might as well finish the job. Can't I just put level compound on top? Don't you need like 5" of screed? I don't know...

Sorry to necro-bump this old thread but it's very similar to what I'm asking so the answer may be relevant. Anyway, I had a leaky sanitaryware (hot water) tap which could not be open to play with the ceramics so had to be replaced. I just so happened to have a bath tap lying around which fit...