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After having a bit of a read and search, I was surprised to fine screwfix do some cheap 150mm long screws. http://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-woodscrews-double-self-countersunk-6-x-150mm-50-pack/13602 £3.99 for 150mm x 50 - I thought that was pretty good value. I'm going to ignore the...

Prob. won't split if your gluing as well.

You won't experience any issues. Depending on how you SE has suggested you fix the two together, screws/bolts ect you'll prob. notice the new timber splitting as it dries out. Don't worry about that.

I've got an existing roof structure (see attached photo). The build up is: Slate Batten Roofing Felt Slate Rafters (100mm) Perlins holding BOTH Slate Rafters and Ceiling Rafters (50mm - 70mm) Ceiling Rafters (100mm) All of the rafters are essentially cut with only one good edge. This edge is...

My gut feeling, will prob. be the same as yours. Basically do what you had agreed with BC and ignore what the timber yard are saying. I would also say that any time your alter/change/trim a graded timber C16 or C24 you will alter it's strength, but if BC are happy, go for it.

And this is where you could buy them... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Construction+Materials/d210/Builders+Metalwork/sd2797/Double+Sided+Timber+Connector/p30004

This is perhaps a better one - as it's mortar on the bricks.

I've just used a hi-pressure washer to clean algae / dirt / mess from some existing imperial bricks. I've attached a picture and you can see the line where they have not been cleaned. I was not sure it would work or not. Equally, I will prob. end up re-pointing this building as we have so much...

I could leave it as croc's teeth... They are called "Double Sided Timber Connectors" This is a link- http://www.sabrefix.com/products/timber-to-timber/double-sided-timber-connector.aspx

I had to laugh at woody's comment. I would be tempted to "reinforce" that timber with a length of timber above the pipe, it might not resolve the problem, but it would make me sleep a lot easier at night. Either side use two coach bolts, perhaps 500mm apart. I can't remember the name of the...

Morning, I would appreciate some comments / feedback in relation to a slab that has been poured by a subcontractor. I've prepared the area with blinding/dpm mesh & concrete mesh men. It's a pour of 130m2 and it was to big for me to do on my own. Contractor was employed to supply men/concrete...

I'm refurbishing an old School Building. It has 9" solid brick walls. We are building an inner timber 'skin' that will A. Take the load of a mezzanine floor above (taking advantage of the height of the School), to give us a second floor. B. Allow us to comply with Thermal Regs C. Give us some...

You learn something new everyday... Even if you don't want to !

I would be tempted to create a separate stud wall (2x3 CLS) and then put celotex in-between the studs. If you want super warm, I'd suggest 10mm celotex over the CLS studs too. Then, plasterboard and skim.

More than strong enough. Essentially that celotex stuff is what you would lay a slab ontop of - so 100mm thick concrete over the whole area. As such, no problems with what your putting onto it. Just make sure that the floor that your putting the celotex on does not have any muck on it or snots...

Yep... Cocked up. When I put up dot and dab I'd put a level on the wall, to determine which way it was (or was not) leaning. Then apply pads to the wall appropriately. Then offer up the plasterboard knowing what the wall was doing. Then slap it up with a long bit of timber, followed by a level...

Firstly, the insulated boards are going to be expensive to purchase. I've done this before and it's cheaper to buy the insulation (i.e. 10mm celotex) and screw that first. Then screw normal plasterboard up. It's really warm, but will not help with the sound much !

I have to say, their is a 'little' movement in the wall in one place, so I will drill and put some more ties in before re-rendering the outside wall. The air movement over the inner skin concept makes sense, so I will go up into the loft and ram some rock wool into the top, to 'seal' the...

I'm just about to buy a turn of the century property to refurbish. Alas, the bay window has been removed. I've spoken to my local brick supplier (Michelmersh) and they have quoted a 26 week lead time on a supply of what I want. I have to say, I did laugh. Can anyone see any reason why I...

My gut feeling is yes... However, I would appreciate other peoples comments. I have refurbished a turn of the century property. It's a mid terrace brick under slate with 65mm cavities - brick on both inside skin and outside skin. I've taken all of the internal walls back to brick and...