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Thanks for that. Do you think the foundations are adequate, which I've done already? I was told it would be fine, done it, then remembered this forum.

I intend to build a planter which will be about 20" wide all round, 1900mm x 1600mm in an L-shape. I want it to be 9 courses high and single skin due to space. I've poured concrete foundations 5" thick and 9" wide all the way round the area shape. Can anyone tell me if I'm thinking correctly...

Thanks for the advice. It's much appreciated

Well, my garden slopes slightly, but I guess the most raised end of the deck will be approximately 18 inches to 24 inches from the current ground level. I haven't collected any exact measurements as yet. The area of the deck will be around 10ft square, if that's relevant.

I'll be setting 100 x100 decking posts into the ground and just wanted some advise on the size and depth the holes should be. Also I was going to use a dry mix of 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast, pack it down then add water later once I've set the posts sitting level. Is this what you pros do...

You guys obviously know what you're talking about. I will go with the wall plate to make sure it is nice and secure. Thanks for the good advise, and I'll let you know how it went

It sounds like you are refering to where the wall meets the celing, and by sides I assume you mean corners. The 1 inch tape is probably half of a width of 2 inch jointing tape, which plasterers use to stick over joints where sheets of plasterboard meet, whether it be ceilings or wall, before...

Thanks for your comments big all. I did actually think about starting further back nearer the corner, but I thought it might look strange not running parellel all the way up. I haven't done it yet, so I will definately bear that in mind. As for the brackets, I was just going to attach them...

Thanks for your advise. The wall I will be attaching to is solid, plaster skimmed over masonry. I will be using a hemlock round rail with the appropriate brackets. Going on this, how many brackets do you suggest?

I want to install a handrail up my stairs and just want some advise on a couple of issues. Firstly, what is the required height of the top of the rail from the nose of the stairs? I heard it was 32inches but please correct me if I'm wrong. Mainly though, if you look at my picture, you'll see...

I just made 4 cupboard doors out of 25mm mdf, which as you probably know is very porus. I Primed and then two coats of satinwood and they look fine. I didn't feel that undercoating them was neccessary since the satinwood was self undercoating, just extra work.

Thanks, and happy new year to all

I understand that a gap is not required, but that is what I have after taking up the laminate flooring. I just wanted to know if it would cause a problem or show when a carpet goes down.

A few years ago, I laid laminate flooring in my lounge, and fixed skirting after to make a neat job, and it looks good. Now, my wife is opting for a change and wants carpet now, but after taking up all the laminate flooring, there is about approx 5mm( or the thickness of the laminate boards)...

It's called the Paint Runner. I've often thought about getting it, but never bothered. Guess I stick to what I'm used to like most people. It's probably ok for small rooms, where you don't have to reload halfway through a wall or ceiling and leave finish lines.

I've got skirting and architrave to paint, which I intend to do with satinwood. Now, at the moment, the wood is bare. I've treated the knots, and what I wanted to know is, can I use a waterbased acrylic quick drying undercoat primer since it is bare wood, and then doublecoat with the satinwood...

Try a steamer. I did it once with a similar situation and the old emulsion practically fell off. Lightly run a scraper through it and it should come off easily. Just be careful of the old plaster when scraping it off. I may be wrong, but if the ceiling was painted straight off without any sort...