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John, are you not reading my posts??? You said: RF Lighting said: I said: Which you didn't answer, instead you said: Which was you totally not understanding the concept of polarity - by the way, that method, as I already stated, only works on lighting radials!!...... so I...

No, no, no...... 'polarity' is the confirmation that single-pole accesories/devices are wired in the 'line' conductor only (put simply). So, answer my question - How do you confirm 'polarity' on a 'radial' socket circuit, by testing, during 'initial verification' - without using the method I...

I would have to answer your rhetorical question, if it's all the same to you. Yes, it is an 'expected' test and should normally be done. I'll give you a clue........it's the 4th test on most guidance lists and goes by the name of 'polarity'. Perhaps you would be so kind as to tell us...

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Maybe so.......but the principle is the same. :wink: If you want to confirm correct connection/polarity of ALL conductors on a socket radial by testing, (as oposed to inspection), just do the same tests. i.e. Connect 'Line' and 'CPC' together at the CU and take R1 + R2 at each socket...

You may want to re-think this statement - 'Continuity of Ring Final Circuit conductors', (Figure of 8 ). if done correctly, confirms polarity of all conductors. If you had N/E reversal at a socket outlet, you wouldn't get a reading at that 'outlet' during either of the...

You need to click on the picture, Holmslaw, it's a video. :)

To make my point simpler, John. If we had two identical cables. One on a 50volt supply and one on a 230volt supply. If the 50volt supplied cable was 10 metres long with a load of 500 watts, the clampmetre should read 10 amps. If the 230volt supplied cable was 10 metres long with a...

Here you have totally lost me. If I measure voltage to earth in the normal fashion, my probe goes on the incomming 'line' conductor and the second probe goes on my earth (say the MET). My meter then applies a resistance between these points and, using the current that then flows through...

Sorry, I should have made the questions easier. You need to know what 'earthing system' your house electrics utilises - this is important. It could be a 'rod' - this would make it a 'TT' system. It could also be a TN-S system - where the supplier provides a seperate earth for you to use...

Best check with your electrician first, before you go doing this, as he has to sign the job off as complying with all relevant regulations. In order to answer your question more info is required. What is the supply earthing system to your house? Are there any extraneous conductive parts...

But even that couldn't give you a 'reading'. As far as I'm aware - and back to basics here :) - you need two of the three to calculate the remaining one. :) With a clamp-metre you don't even get one of the three - unless the cable is under load, then you get the current...........care to...

Am I missing something here, or have you completely lost the plot, John?? :) You might be able to measure that a voltage is present, but how the hell would you take an actual reading. Voltage, or should I say potential difference, as the name implies, is a difference in potential between...

The problem is, John, to do a full EICR first, you will be required to complete a 'schedule of inspections' and a 'schedule of test results. This EICR is on the existing installation, which includes the existing CU, (and protective devices etc), it would take you most of the day on an average...

Why is this such a surprise? There's no requirement to do a full EICR before doing a CU swap. If you wanted one, then it would probably push the price of the CU swap up considerably. If they are reputable sparks, they will make the inspection/tests that they deem necessary prior to the...

Hi, I've read your post a couple of times and can't understand it - you haven't described the set-up very well. :) If the picture you've uploaded is the right light, could you also upload a picture of the left light wiring and a picture of the back of the switch - showing connections in...

Take the fixed wiring, that you have inserted into the block, out again - so that the light fitting looks like it did when you bought it (in your 3rd picture, I think). Now you have only the 'line' and 'neutral' connections of the light connected to the block. Turn the block around and slide...

Or - do it all in an adaptable box in a place that best suits you......(next to the Cu / Incomming supply)....... using wagos. From the adaptable box :- 3-core to switch 1, 3-core to switch 2, T&E to light, T&E to CU......job done. :) P.S You'll also need 1 x 5-way, 2 x...

RZW, I'm having trouble understanding how the switches operated before you 'fiddled' with them. Am I right in the following description - if not, could you describe how each switch operated before the wiring was changed. Downstairs double switch... Switch 1 operates downstairs light...

And what BAS said! :lol: