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Amazing. I find four or five calls fills my day. That's as much as I can achieve AND look after my customers properly. Cheers, Mike

I think you need to mention the exact make and model of your boiler first. All combis are NOT the same. We might identify the problem, but from the structure of your post I suspect you may not be able to deal with it yourself. You probably still need to get someone out to look at it...

Sounds like a faulty thermistor to me. They come in pairs and are freely available from independent spares merchants. BG can't get them because they are from a different planet to the rest of us. Their maintenance plans primarily exist as a lead source for new boiler sales. Quite an elegant...

Sounds to me as though your boiler is overheating in HW mode, possibly due to water scale, but it is hard to tell without seeing it. It is definitely not working properly from what you say, but I think you need to get a combi repair engineer in. It's not a DIY job to fix it. The milky look to...

Depressing. The calibre of people some entering the plumbing industry appears to be as low as ever. No wonder we have an image problem. Cheers, Mike

Thanks for your replies. That is my thinking too. There is 18 ohms on the immersion element terminals, on the immersion heater cable (i.e. with the thermostat in the circuit) so that's why I went right back to the CU, ands still found 18 ohms. Good point about the thermostat being well...

I fix boilers for a living, and although I'm a gas bod I'm getting more and more calls these days to Economy 7-powered thermal-store water heaters. I currently have one that fails to heat up overnight, and I'm mystified. I've checked over-all continuity by taking the cover off the consumer...

MY latest voltstick regularly returns false positive results unless I am touching something earthed while using it. How do you know yours wasn't giving a false positive result if you didn't use a meter to confirm? You'd look a bit silly if you made a fuss about it to the HSE then found YOU...

I'm willing to bet that this thing is a motorised valve and the synchron motor has died. Others have suggested the same. Symptoms will be as you describe. You can't fix it yourself unless you are handy with screwdrivers and a multimeter. Are you? If not, get a heating repair specialist...

This indicates either 1) Your boiler gas consumption WAY above safe levels 2) Your gas meter is WAY out of callibration 3) You have a whopping gas leak None seems very likely but one must be the case. My money is on 3). Turn your gas off and call Transco for a free check. The number...

The boiler should be off and silent when the external controls are set to 'OFF'. The next thing to do is to rule out an external controls problem by measuring the voltage on the 'call for heat' terminal on your boiler while the chattering is going on. The terminal is labelled "SwL" on a Baxi...

Right, a bit more information. The locking mechanisms are not rack and pinion like on other windows I have fitted in the past. These are "Saracen High Security" mechanisms which cause round bolts to emerge top and bottom from the sash and engage in the frame when the handle is turned, and a...

We have uPVC window and two of the sashes won't open. The rack & pinion mechanisms inside have stiffened/jammed/broken/disintegrated to the point where the square shafts on the handles have broken off in the window frame. Inserting another square shaft into the square hole and applying brute...

The hot pump and cool pipe suggests that there isn't actually any circulation. Either there isn't enough water in the system (cold feed pipe blocked with corrosion deposits at the tee where it joins the system) or the pump itself has failed. Pump motor bodies often get VERY hot when they...

You come here asking for help, then get arsey when someone asks you for proper information that might lead to a diagnosis. On top of that you SHOUT all the time. I don't think you'll get much help ANYWHERE on the net with an attitude like that. Cheers, Mike

Hi Chris, Correct, but 'should' is the significant word. I now know that Seimens valves are capable of delivering 190v out on the orange wire to the boiler. It 'should' have been 240v but it wasn't! Cheers, Mike

Haha so you've found the same then! Mine was really puzzling at first. A Suprima that started properly when DHW was calling for heat but stalled half way through the igntion sequence on call for CH only. Neon screwdriver showed a call for heat present on the SwL terminal in both situations...

I'd change the circuit board. They fail commonly on this boiler. Commonly enough for me to keep two in stock. The comment about the power head on the MV is a red herring. The boiler doesn't care what make it is providing it is delivering a 240v 'call for heat' signal to the boiler. (Mind you...

Because the the voltage drop in a cable is proportional to it's length (amongst other things), and the interconnects inside the shower unit are very short so they don't need to be so fat. We get the same question about gas pipes. Why does a combi need 22mm or 28mm copper when the inlet...

How about this ammended scenario: HISTORY: Gas Engineer visits property: Engineer observes polarity on boiler appears to be reversed as brown is connected to N and blue is connected the L on the boiler terminals. Fails to note that BOTH ends of the flex are reversed, so boiler polarity is...