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See I wouldn't have put mortar in-between two steels as it has nothing to set to. The steel or slate packers between the beam and padstone seem a worse place then putting the same across the length of the RSJ/lintel? As those padstones are going to take all the pressure? Can pack them as close...

I'm having a new RSJ put in (blue) to remove a wall (red). To reduce the work the beam is going beneath a steel lintel (green) already in place. The best approach seems to be up for deliberation so I thought I'd see what other opinions and ideas are out there... 1. jack the new RSJ against the...

Hi all, I moved into a house 6 months ago and found it is of shocking build quality. 1984, by people that really didn't give a ****. I'm trying to redo a lot of it properly and here I have the downstairs toilet room. For this gem, none of the walls are straight, either bulging or bad angles...

I didn't do the work. The trim at the bottom which the glass fits into has two floating brackets and these do screw into the tray. On the 6mm variant the brackets are different with no option. That the crack is still propagating indicates a problem under the tray, i.e the bed isn't level...

Epoxy fix has failed, tray continues to crack. Ordered another and will do the work myself.

I was looking at the bracket again, it's designed to float on the top which is how the tray would still be able to move. Once the enclosure trims are installed with the silicone the screw design becomes optional at best. They should have kept it like the 6mm glass version and not bothered. That...

Square one won't work with the bathroom, it's an awkward size typical 80's house where there isn't a spare edge. A square one would mean a manoeuvre to get to the sink! I'll try to recover first, I have epoxy and white additive in the garage so may as well give it a shot. There's a lot of...

I did, he doesn't want to know.

Inspecting it further. Two large screws clamp the top all the way down to the ply. The tray couldn't really move if it wanted too. It can't be coincidence the crack goes through the hole. I tried finding the installation pdf for 'Aqualux Aquarius 8' but could only find it for the 6. The bracket...

Mine's a quadrant so I don't have that option. I spoke to the plumber today and he recommended trying to fix the crack with epoxy. It's going about 10cm across the tray now. He did mention the mortar is actually tile adhesive. I suppose as long as it was left to dry it would act the same, but...

Alright I'm leaning to buying the same tray, removing the mortar and ply and dropping it 18mm, something the plumber didn't do. This means the glass will have to drop. I reckon the sides will be on some sliding mechanism where the bolts go, new holes at worst, but the top supports aren't and I...

Yes, Roger is really excellent. The prep I think was good, marine ply floor, mortar levelling. It's just the tiny bit of missing siliconing (why!!!) which has allowed a little water to get down. Few months later and... I've managed to source the same tray again despite Aqualux being no more...

Hi all, Depressing day, I've found my shower tray has cracked. The installation is a few months old. I paid a plumber with an excellent reputation to install it and I'm sad to see he made a mistake. See if you can spot it... I've taken the floor up and found water in the mortar underneath...

For my curiosity I checked and the valve that was 'open' was the cold water isolation valve. It appears to be two way, so shunting water to the filling loop. For some reason it doesn't appear to be fully isolating though and for another mystery the pressure makes a difference to the hot water flow.

Doh sorted it, so there's two valves to pressurise the system and one was open which restricted the HW flow but only when pressure was up. It would be cool if someone could explain it as I love to learn!

Hi all, Ideal Vogue C26 Gen2 With CH off... When the boiler pressure is minimal, enough to clear the screen (so say 0.1 bar), the hot water works normally. If I then increase the bar to 1.0 the hot water flow halves if not quarters. Otherwise the boiler is fine and was serviced late last...

But why only when it's hot? It can run for 10 minutes before the noise begins.

eBay carries most the parts too. There's probably more parts on eBay for these boilers then in Ideal's stock room!

The ideal accredited guy said it could be a number of things, he give the fan as the first thing. Above we've had gas valve and pump. A couple things are for sure:- 1. it will only happen when the boiler is at working temperature. For the duration leading up to that we can have hot water...

Guy coming tomorrow, from the Ideal accredited list so fingers crossed he wont do what the last one did (took the fuse out, £60 off my mother and f**ked off). Will look at Ideal fixed repair though. I thought SSE etc wouldn't cover these old boilers.