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Better to take your pots and pans to the river, I would have thought :D

Best result would be take take pan out. Tile floor. Resite pan and check soil pipe will connect - if there is no movement ( :oops: ) in the soil pipe, you can get offset connectors (see mcalpines catalogue on the web). Redrill the cistern securing screws Before placing pan, use a generous...

To get best results, I suggest the following: 1. Strip all existing polishes with something like HG Polish strip / Deep clean solution. 2. Leave until the tile have dried out. This will take a couple of days as you need to keep rinsing the stripper with lots of warm water. 3. Seal the tiles...

If the new scim is olished, you should either roughen up the surface with coarse sandpaper or prime with a suitable primer - NOT PVA. Contact BAL or Ardex, and they will recommend a suitable primer.

If the tiles are ceramic or porcerlain, no need to seal. If they're stone (terracotta, slate, limestone, marble ... ) you must seal as soon as possible with something like Lithofin or HG or any stain will be be impossible to remove.

Thanks again, Jason.

One other quick question.. before bolting the butt together, should the joint be sealed in any way? I'm thinking that if water gets into the joint, the wood would expand. Maybe I'm asking the same thing, but do the biscuits and bolts form the mechanical joint, or do you use something like PVA...

Cheers Jason

Hi Petewood Looking in the catalogue, it doesn't appear to have an edge moulding. The worktop look square on all edges. I will be fitting it myself, and although I've done "normal" worktops before, I'm not sure how mason's mitre joint will perform with the movement of a wooden worktop. What...

Can you suggest best way of joining this worktop (from ikea)? 1. Mason mitre? 2. Butt with biscuits? 3. 45 degree mitre? Thanks

Excellent ideas, thank you very much.

Just been going over the job I need to do (fit new bath suite and retile), and a thought has struck me. I fully expect when I bolster the old tiles off, some of the plaster will come of with the tiles. If that happenned, I planned to make good with something like hardwall backing plaster to...

Thanks Kevplumb. Guess the next step is to get stuck in :)

Sorry to ask again, but don't want to screw this job up for ma in law. 1. She has bought a bath /sink/toilet from Bee and Queue, so the taps (new) will be current size - is that 22mm or 3/4"? 2. The house is an ex council of circa 1960, so I think the the larger bore pipe be 3/4" not 22mm...

Good ideas. I'll see which way the ma in law wants to go with this. Thanks guys.

Thanks Jason, Aquapanel is it then.

Hi All I've had some really good advice from the Plumbers about installing a shower. I have reposted their responses below, 'cos the final question is more electrical, and is concerned about connecting an "all in one" shower unit (pump and controls in one wall mounted box). Is my thinking...

Can't give you a solution, but I have the same thing on my cold supply. I've worked it out that the problem is air in the water, in the form of tiny bubbles giving the milky colour. Does the milky clear water clear if left standing for a bit?

Thanks for the suggestions. If I was to go with an "all in one" solution, which was mains driven, would I need to get a sparks in to install it on a dedicated RCD at the CU. Or can they run of a spurred FCU /RCD, so in the airing cupboard on the landing?

Sorry for asking again, but been thinking about how to tile the shower encloser in my ma in laws. Where the shower is going is in a corner where two stud walls meet, so the background is basic plasterboard. Would my best option be to use ext. ply and then tile with waterproof adhesive and...