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Brilliant! Can't believe it is that simple!! Thank you so much.

I am converting a utility room into a second bathroom The window frame is in perfect condition and doesn't need altering so I don't want to rip out the whole window . Is changing the sealed unit the simplest most cost effective route? (I assume I can't treat the existing glass in some way?!) Thanks

www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-290ml/22070 Cheers! I'll do exactly that!:D

While I was removing tiles from round a bathroom window , the old plaster on the concrete lintol fell off too. If I use some sort of "dabs" technique to stick plasterboard to the lintol will it be strong enough to take the weight of the tile? Would something like Pink Stuff or Grip Fill do the job?

I am going to have to hack tile from a bathroom wall and cause extensive damage to the render- they seem to be fixed with sand and cement rather that tile adhesive. Will I need to re-render the wall or would, say, one-coat plaster do the job?

Thanks. I thought tiling over tile was a no-no?

Having discovered that removing wall tiles is indeed a nightmare, I am now wondering if I can screw hardiebacker board to the wall- say 70mm screws through the tile and into the wall behind- and tile that. Any reason why that wouldn't work?

So the reason it seems like concrete....!! Thanks for your help. I suppose it is some consolation knowing it isn't my imagination. :) And if I have to go back to the bricks do I replaster before re-tiling?

Can anyone advise?! I have started removing tiles from an old bathroom. I have no idea what was used to stick them with but it seems like concrete! No matter what I do the tiles break into tiny pieces which only come off with quantities of the plaster. And every tile is a battle! The bond of...

Ok. I think I need to man-up, fire up the saw- and have a heat gun handy! Thanks to all of you for the input.

I kinda think that 5mm is not a lot of stretch for a rubber adaptor. But I have the nagging doubt that it is not "really 4inch pipe" . Just wanted to check if there is weird stuff out there! Guess I am just being paranoid! Thanks

Yes, I used several methods and came up with the 140mm diameter figure.

I'm fitting an inspection chamber into an existing "old" clay drain. I bought two flexible adaptors ( screwfix) which are marked as adapting 110mm to 122-136. Being a timid soul, I measured the circumference of the existing glazed clay pipe , before cutting it. The circumference is 440mm which I...

Thanks Doggit. I'm sure you are right but I think you are describing a "cold roof". The method I'm describing is I think a "warm roof" ( I might have it the wrong way round). Anyway, it's the method that the plans specify and the 170mm is in the drawings too. So right or wrong the BCO expects...

Hi I am using Thermaroof 127 to insulate my extension ( warm ) roof. I will be nailing the vapour barrier and then want to use adhesive to fix 120mm TR27 to that, followed by 50mm TR27 to that, and then 9.5mm OSB to take a fibreglass top surface. I have looked at the on-line installation...

What is the best way to fix the VLC to the plywood deck of a flat roof. Spec calls for nails. Are these clout/felt nails or.... ? And should I use an adhesive like insu-stix to add extra strength and seal joints ?

Well there is that! Maybe the architect knows something. :LOL:

Take your point of course. Still it is difficult to see how a fire could spread more easily through the cavity than in the room itself. Don't know the material but CAVI230 claim of course they resist fire for 230 minutes. Which is longer than the OSB sheathing would last. :D

TBH that did cross my mind. But fire is nasty stuff and we have had a good lesson on unforeseen consequences.

I'm building a single story flat roof extension , timber frame and block with the usual 50mm cavity. The architect has specified horizontal cavicheck fire stops at head and ground level. I'm curious what the fire stops would stop a fire from doing. ie where would the fire be going from and to...