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Rough sketch

I'm planning to locate the relay junction box in the cupboard under the stairs, since that's where the controller for the LED light feature will be. I have some spare 4-core cable (6243Y) which I'd like to use for this. The cable from the landing sensor and the cable from the hall sensor will...

It's the LED lighting that will be inside the handrail, beaming down into the glass. If it was controlled by the occupancy sensor on the landing, then the handrails wouldn't illuminate when you walk through the hall. If it was controlled by the occupancy sensor in the hall, then the landing...

I'm in the middle of a complete renovation of hall, stairs and landing, with ceilings off and loft boards up so I'm happy to install new cables. The reason I wanted to avoid smart devices and, if possible, use solid state relays is to have the most reliable solution for the long-term. With...

Hi Sunray, That's very impressive and posted so quick! I've spent the day trying to get my tiny head round it, and think I finally understand. I take it that everything is shown as OFF in your diagram, and that if for example the Hall occupancy sensor was triggered, it would look something...

I have an occupancy sensor controlling the lights in the hall, and another controlling the lights on the landing. This has worked well for over 10 years. I'm now building a glass balustrade with LED lighting in the handrail on stairs and landing. I would like this to be controlled by both...

A few years ago they removed Quest HD from our Freeview transmission here in the West Midlands. So I started using a satellite system to pick up Quest HD, just to watch Aussie Gold Hunters / Outback Opal Hunters (every Monday, 9pm). Unfortunately about a couple of months ago I could no longer...

You're absolutely right - it took a couple of months tracking down the correct dimmable driver, making sure it was the cheapest option, then waiting for it to arrive from China. For the benefit of anyone else here searching for a solution in the future... I bought the 6W drivers from this Ali...

Ha... sorry about the carpet ...it came with the house! Yes I'm going to re-carpet the stairs afterwards. I would like to do just the treads, and oak veneer the risers, but haven't committed yet as it will cost ~£80 more for the veneer. Also, I've noticed it had much better sound dampening when...

I've had a go with the veneer. This is real white oak wood veneer, and I paid £38 for one roll of 285mm x 4.2m. As mentioned previously, I didn't expect to be able to cut it in one single piece going the full length of the stringer. So I had to settle for a series of 'vertical boards'. For...

For the benefit of anyone searching for an answer to this in the future: The beading strips were for aesthetics only - tacked on with just 4 pins and no glue.

As far as I can tell the end of the stringer is supported by the first step, as shown in post 11. Between the fourth and fifth step the stringer seems to be supported by a wall for the cupboard under the stairs: The studs which held the plasterboard also connect the stringer to the...

I've noticed each step has a 90° beading strip under the lip. I'd like to remove these because I have light strips to go there after the carpet is laid. Were these strips usually done to reduce creaking - or just for aesthetics reasons?

Thanks Tiger, though my limited experience working with wood has always been something where I can fill and paint over the end result. This will be my first time working with natural woodgrain so it's a bit daunting and need to go slowly. I'm planning to have two large glass panels which will...

I've removed the plasterboard panels. Unfortunately it doesn't have any newel posts. I'll be adding 115mm posts. Will it be rigid enough if I just cut a slot in the base of the post to sandwich the stringer, or will I also need to cut a square slot in the first step and push the post through?

Had to delay this a while due to the Homes 4 Ukraine program, but I'm on the case again. I've decided on an oak and glass balustrade. Tested part of a stringer with several rounds of paint remover, uncovering at least 6 shades so far. I'd prefer to give up with that and cover the stringers in...

As mentioned earlier, I bought sets of flat panels 3 times trying to get the brightness and colour temperature just right (once 3W and twice 6W). So I've just tried swapping a 6W driver with one from the other 6W set (they both have the same power connectors, shown in previous post) ...and it...

I'm planning to put the boards up against the joists using plasterboard support rods, get them to fit then mark everything out. Bring them back down and cut the 10mm channel with a Stanley knife, then bond plasterboard strips over the channel with...

Yes they're the basic ultra-flat panel type with separate driver. Does the ability to dim depend on the driver alone, or also the LEDs?

Thanks guys, I guess I need the inevitable 4th set of LEDs. The lights are going down the centre of a hallway ceiling, and unfortunately the joist also runs down the centre. I'd chosen this generic flat panel LED design as they're only a few millimetres thick where they would meet the joist...