Search results

Not sure what you mean by "silicone based impermeable sealer". Lithofin Stain Stop MN is a very good stone sealer. http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/lithofin-mn-stain-stop-natural-stone-impregnator-sealer-1-litre.html You can buy as 5L if you have a large area or very absorbent stone.

You can dot and dab 12.5mm Marmox if you use tile adhesive and also mechanically fix through the dabs. Drill it first so that you know where to dab the adhesive. Instructions - http://www.marmox.co.uk/uploads/product_images/47/MarmoxMultiboardfittinginstructions.pdf

I think a more conventional approach, assuming the joists are good and the floor nice and rigid, would be use a good quality 18mm WBP Ply + lots of noggins to strengthen the joists and spread the load. You don't need 25mm Marine. Going to be a hell of a faff to cut the joists down and they...

I think 300x300 is the max for most tub adhesive - it won't go off with the larger tiles. Should have used cement based (bagged) adhesive - they cure by chemical reaction and cope with the larger format tiles. On the plus side - it won't take you long to lift and clean the files - do it...

I think your floor won't be as strong as if the ply was on top of the joists. I'd just accept the raised floor height (fit a tapered threshold) or leave out the UFH.

Does the towel rail not adjust - closer/further away from the wall?

Plasterboard's cheap. Why not hack it off and try again?

Hi Tpt Agree that Ditra won't insulate but I'd have thought it would help isolate the tiles from the expanding/contracting ply - it's job being to isolate tiles from lateral movement.

I'm no expert on UFH but I don't think you want to be laying it directly on Ply - it will expand and contract, especially with UFH. You haven't said what power the UFH is or what tiles you'll be using or whether you need to waterproof the floor. Your Marmox plan is probably the best (it's...

If you mean tanking the floor then it's probably easier and better to cover the whole floor in ditra/durabase rather than just a bit of it..

Varies from with stone type. Some like Marble hardly need sealing at all and can be sealed after grouting. Others like soft Limestone you'd want to seal before grouting or even a part seal before laying.

Scrape the skim off the aquapanel.

You haven't said what floor your tiling on to but 9 times out of 10 you'll want to use a flexible adhesive on the floor. I've used Weber adhesives rapid.spf of floor & set.plus on walls but I'm sure Mapei do good equivalent adhesives as do Ardex/Bal etc.

You might find a slow setting adhesive easier on the walls. Fast set on the floor means you can walk on it sooner but on the walls a slow set allows you more time to adjust the tiles.

A cement based tile adhesive will do a much better job than multifinish - it'll be a much stronger bond.

If the mesh tape is self adhesive then why not just stick it on and cover it with tile adhesive when you tile the wall. No sense using multifinish where you will be tiling.

Instead of tape and multi finish why don't you use mesh tape and tile adhesive? Not sure unskimmed plasterboard needs a primer. Won't do any harm though. Best approach to walls & floor is probably to do the walls first leaving out the bottom row. Do the floor then cut the bottom row in...

So using glass mosaics to tile over a delaminating out door table that has a fire pit in the middle. What could possibly go wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you use a 10mm square notched trowel and back skim the tiles then you'll end up with a 6/7mm bed of adhesive. This would be about standard for large format tiles on walls that aren't dead flat. If you use a smaller notch for the border - 3mm is about the smallest but 6mm is the most...

They don't want to go to the trouble/expense of removing the WC or aren't sure how to.