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Well, it turns out Ive got stuck when programing my 48 panel. Ive got wintex connected, Ive managed to (I think) name all zones and set up the zones up correctly in the settings. However I'm still having some issues when trying to program it to do what I want to do. Basically I have the...

Thanks for the pointers secureiam. Although frustrating at times, Im enjoying the learning doing this as a DIY job. As we have young children I have to stop the DIY after 7pm as there is a no noisy drilling/hammering policy once they have gone to bed. Im guessing this policy will also extend...

A bit more research and I think I found the answer. The drawing of mine above would appear correct. Im using AMDT detectors from Texecom so the resistors are already set. So Alarm, tamper and masking are all monitored through one pair - one wire to left most alarm and one to right most...

Hi thanks secureiam, though still a little confused For the device connected to the keypad I can take power from the network terminals on the keypad, but then I have on the keypad for a zone: one pair of terminals for alarm (A) and a pair of terminals for tamper (T). On the pir itself (a...

Unfortunately don't have this option for one of the zones that I want to wire into a keypad, I have a single 8 core to the keypad, but now wish to put a zone in that same area, so looking to make use of the ability to wire a zone into the keypad itself. Also I'm slightly confused by the naming...

I'm well into wiring it up now, but just got a couple of questions: when I wire a zone/pir into a keypad panel do I just tap into the +12 and 0V feeding the keypad to get power to the pir itself? A the panel end, do I just stick all the +12v and 0v for all the pirs into the aux 12v supply on...

Hi Secureiam, Thanks for the help on the last thread too. Until ive bottomed out the issues affecting the evohome which runs on 868mhz, I'm trying to avoid putting in anything that could be seen as a possible cause for problems. Plus, I may as well use all the wired zones I have first and...

Yep - got the CD - haven't opened it up yet - I assumed it just contained the software. If its got all the installation manuals etc, then great :)

Does anyone have an installation guide for Texecom - Im specifically installing the 48 metal panel and hoping to do it this weekend. After various posts and much help from others in a previous thread (http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/texecom-installation-assistance-confirmation.442972/) I...

Thanks again for the info. The building is only office, and lighting is only in the 600x600 ceiling tile fittings. There are a few round fluorescent bulbs on the staircase and in cleaners cupboard but again these are thin and not T12.

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a chat with the assessor tomorrow and see what the explanation is.

I dont think we have any T12's They all appear to be these PL-L type - and rough estimate we have about 100+ of them in this building, and the lights tend to be on most days for about 8 hours. All with 2 x 55w PL-L's in - so somewhere in the region of 11KW of lighting. The building is in Band...

Hi, Ive just had an energy efficiency review/certificate done on a building I own, and one of the items noted on the improvements is the replacement of 38mm T12 tubes with 26mm T8 tubes. However when Ive taken a light down myself to check this, Ive found they are Phillips PL-L, not T12. Ive...

I wouldn't do poison. Bits of Mars bar and a few traps would be my suggestion. If you use poison, they will eat it and then run off int a dark quiet corner to die. You are then going to spend a fair few quid tracking down the decomposing body of mice/rats when it starts to smell.

If you dont understand it, then its unlikely to be the problem, as it is a setting you have to manually apply on your router. I assume your router is one that has a built in firewall. The DMZ is the "demilitarized zone". What this means is that you can elect a specific IP address (on most...

Have you by any chance put your laptop in the DMZ on the router? It may then be treated as being outside of the internal network, in which case you may have issues connecting to another internal device on that specific port.

Hi, The solid walls downstairs are block, but not the light modern type, they're 1960s solid b*ggers. The walls of the kitchen are all brick cavity walls (it was built out of the old garage and they just kept the double skin walls). So between back hallway and kitchen is cavity wall. Same...

Apologies for the delay, life got a bit busy! Im starting to think that wireless and my home just aren't good friends! Myself and the heating installer spent an age trying to get the evohome to work properly and had to re site some of the receivers for the boiler and hot water. If honeywell...

Apologies I didn't realise that my location isn't shown on my profile (that many forums it gets confusing) I'm in the Chesterfield (north east derbyshire) area. I'll get the pdf layouts of the house with proposed layout and all cable details (number in loft etc) posted up. I appreciate it's...

I know what you mean with biting off more than I can chew, though I find its the best way to learn sometimes. Build is solid walls and distance from end to end of the house is a good 120ft. There is wiring for one sounder and I could always pinch one of the upstairs cables that was destined...