Texecom Installation Guide - is it available?

[CChris]

Does anyone have an installation guide for Texecom - Im specifically installing the 48 metal panel and hoping to do it this weekend.

After various posts and much help from others in a previous thread (//www.diynot.com/diy/threads/texecom-installation-assistance-confirmation.442972/)

I have decided to start small and build up - Im also going with all wired devices for now, because Im already having slight issues with the range of an Evohome heating installation. While the Texecom operates mesh so I may not suffer range issues with it, it does operate on the same frequency band as the Evohome, so Im just trying to minimise the possibility of interference.

Kit Im looking to install is

Premier Elite 48 metal panel
8 PIRs (8 zones)
1 oddessy external sounder
battery
1 internal speaker/sounder
3 keypads

If anyone has any installation manuals that will help me in this, I would be most grateful if you could point me in the direction of them.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Nintendofan]

Did you not get a CD Rom with the panel, this contains all the instructions, engineer manuals and various software including Wintex that you may need?

 

[CChris]

Yep - got the CD - haven't opened it up yet - I assumed it just contained the software. If its got all the installation manuals etc, then great

 

[secureiam]

I have several devices using 868, and don't have any issues, including various alarm manufacturers alarms and two texecom wireless, plus wireless heating.

no issues, the advice is don't have receivers and transmitters of the different systems close together, ricochet does install on networks, with slightly different frequency with the 868 band so I'm told, when you learn the first device as I understand it that sets what network it is on, it may also be possible to change it on your wireless heating but I wouldn't know for sure without checking.

you get a battery fault on the wireless device it may cause jamming.

Hard wired is cheaper and been around much longer and therefore better established. You can get issue with damaged cables faultly devices etc but in the whole hard wired is better than wireless

 

[CChris]

Hi Secureiam,

Thanks for the help on the last thread too. Until ive bottomed out the issues affecting the evohome which runs on 868mhz, I'm trying to avoid putting in anything that could be seen as a possible cause for problems. Plus, I may as well use all the wired zones I have first and move to wireless only for any that I may have forgot.

I'm well into wiring it up now, but just got a couple of questions:

when I wire a zone/pir into a keypad panel do I just tap into the +12 and 0V feeding the keypad to get power to the pir itself?
A the panel end, do I just stick all the +12v and 0v for all the pirs into the aux 12v supply on the 48 panel?

I know these are pretty basic questions, but I cant seem to find the answers in the installation guide. (probably because they expect somebody installing to at least have that basic knowledge)

First ever alarm install, so its slow going, but I'm enjoying learning.

 

[Europlex]

ALWAYS wire from every devise back to the control panel, saves any confusion and allows for more easy alteration in the future when you think of updating one end or the other.

Use 8 core to this end, more options, unless you ever want to go down the route of using resistors that is.

 

[CChris]

Unfortunately don't have this option for one of the zones that I want to wire into a keypad, I have a single 8 core to the keypad, but now wish to put a zone in that same area, so looking to make use of the ability to wire a zone into the keypad itself.

Also I'm slightly confused by the naming of terminals on the pirs. at the panel I have the alarm and tamper terminals for a zone, but on the pir I have res, set, T-EOL, rled and spare (as well as the +12 and 0 on both panel and pir)

 

[secureiam]

teol is triple end of line, wire to the first and last terminals of the zone in the keypad, power from the network terminals in the keypad.

program the correct teol resistance of the device, you will need to map the keypad zone to one of the systems free zones.

 

[CChris]

Hi thanks secureiam, though still a little confused

For the device connected to the keypad I can take power from the network terminals on the keypad, but then I have on the keypad for a zone: one pair of terminals for alarm (A) and a pair of terminals for tamper (T). On the pir itself (a texecom AMDT) I have a pair of terminals for T-EOL. and others marked test, set, RLED and spare. Are you saying I take the pair of terminals marked T-EOL and wire to the left most alarm terminal (A) and the right most tamper (T) terminal for zone 1 on the keypad?

For the devices I'm wiring straight back to the panel, for each zone I have a pair of A and pair of T terminals - should I do the same here - wire the TEOL terminals to the left hand A and right hand T for each zone?

Sorry for the pretty basic questions, its my first ever go at a house alarm. Pretty handy with most other stuff, but this is a learning curve for me.


i.e. is this correct (and basically the same for wiring direct to the panel too for the zones):

 

[CChris]

A bit more research and I think I found the answer. The drawing of mine above would appear correct. Im using AMDT detectors from Texecom so the resistors are already set. So Alarm, tamper and masking are all monitored through one pair - one wire to left most alarm and one to right most tamper.

Three more detectors and a bell box to wire in and I'm all set to see what happens when I switch it on.

Then programming, which I'm hoping Ill be better at than the wiring

 

[secureiam]

lol. just need to make sure you have it set for the correct TEOL for the AM detectors

 

[CChris]

Thanks for the pointers secureiam.

Although frustrating at times, Im enjoying the learning doing this as a DIY job. As we have young children I have to stop the DIY after 7pm as there is a no noisy drilling/hammering policy once they have gone to bed. Im guessing this policy will also extend to testing the bellbox and internal sounder on a house alarm too.

It appears the builders managed to damage a direct burial ethernet cable for the CCTV too, so Im currently doing battle on three fronts - CCTV, house alarm and trying to resolve one last remaining comms issue on an Evohome heating setup.

Im sure when it comes to programming Ill probably run into some more fun issues.