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why not dig down a bit and replace the lot onto the (presumably) clay pipe

what burnerman said. I fitted a back to wall toilet recently in our house and regret getting it over a normal toilet due to faff of installation, althought if everything is measured out correctly then it shouldn't leak. I'd avoid using a flex connector as shown above if possible.

thanks, I think I have one. The problem is I can hear it bubbling air back into when it has finished pumping. I presume this is because it is running downhill although the manual only says considerably lower and our runs a little bit lower so not sure if this is the problem: There is also a...

This is by far and away the best solution of all. I would go as far as you can to try and reach an agreement and remain friendly with your neigbour (even if they are obnoxious bar-stewards!)

We have a saniplus macerator in the en-suite of the attic bedroom. Who-ever installed it did a bad job of it. I have unkinked the outflow pipe and straightened the pipe work up (yes I know it shouldn't be 25mm MDPE pipe but I'm stuck with it untill I rip it all out next year) see picture below...

easy DIY job if you have the right tools and know what you are doing. Ideally need (or borrow) an sds drill with a long drill bit to get the pipe throught the wall. (If you can do plumbing then plumb it in properly with a hose union back plate or you can get these kits with a self cutting...

I've never had an issue myself even with cheap ones or hozelock ones but like Srodders said, put 2 rubber washers in and it shouldn't leak

personnaly I would be worried that mortar between the blocks is coming out so easily in an 18 month old house. I'm not a builder so it could just be settlement

This makes no sense, the 1/2" adapter is for tap thread, how did you get it onto a 3/4" tap? are you setting it up like this?

Is it this sort of thing you are putting on? If so there should be a rubber washer in it which if tightened correctly (hand tight) shouldn't leak. If all these different ones leak, then either they are all faulty (unlikely) or the tap is leaking from elsewhere. Other solution would be to add...

get a henry hoover.

well its looking at about double the cost for the liquid screed, about £600 for sand/cement with fibres and £1200 for the liquid screed

Thanks for the replies, I'm just going to get a few quotes now for the liquid screed. What sort of cost should I be expecting for 2 m cubed of the stuff (30m2 x 0.065m depth), pumped and finished?

Appologies if this has been covered before, but couldn't find anything. I want to know the pro's and cons of traditional screed vs liquid screed over my UFH. The make up is DPM, 100mm concrete slab, 75mm kingspan type insulation (with 25mm round the outside walls), thin vapour barrier with...

I think the issue is because the insulation has a vapour barrier ontop of it which the UFH pipes sit on, so any moisture left in the slab will trapped there. I am having a similar dilema at the moment myself. Is there an addative that speeds up the curing of the slab?

Great stuff, thanks everyone for your input. Where can you buy the rounded bead from, its not something I've ever seen? How does the beading work with regard to painting it, do you have your top coat finished flush with the bead and then just paint over the metal/plastic (with the relevant...

Can I achieve rounded corners on plasterboard which will be skimmed over and then painted? I don't like the modern straight edge beading and would rather have a finish on the corners like the victorians use to (ie rounded) Thanks Jim

was just about to purchase a Henry when I've seen that the Charles isn't that much more expensive and is a wet and dry. Is it worth paying a little more for the wet and dry? does anyone have the wet & dry and nexer use the wet part or just got the dry only and wishes they got the wet&dry?

why would you want to drill through plasterboard?