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I'd also be a bit more wary if you use air fed breathing gear, stale damp air that has once been warm isn't a good thinhg to be breathing in

I was also told that if the Isolator was not in the same room, it should be possible to lock it off if it is being used as an isolator for safe maintenance, none of the double pole shower switches I've seen would satisfy this, but I've not met a spark who doesn't put one in anyway

depends how much use you're going to give it, what sort of thickness of material, I bought a fairly cheap one many years ago, supposedly 140 amps, would struggle to cope with anything more than 2.5mm rods, can take 3.25 but with rubbish penetration, duty cycles not too clever either, with an oil...

Thanks for all the suggestions, went at it with a wandering lead and found a N/E swap on a JB under a floorboard, originally didn't suspect any JB's might be there, just goes to show, can't take owt for granted!

Yes, all sorted ta, had a proper talk with her and talked her round a bit, dropped £50 from what I perhaps should have charged but don't like having any unhappy customers, it being a small market town, I probably get more work from recomendation than anything else, sometimes worth losing out a...

Yes to all the above, not on lighting circuit, one socket on top floor on ring, two more as spurs

no, PIR was done by someone else, if I'd done it I'd have spotted that, 3 light switches over 3 floors with live CPCs, don't know how that could have been missed, specially seeing as one was a dimmer which I would have disconnected for testing, and if I'd done the PIR I would feel compelled to...

Hager twin RCD board, (5+5), new CU, main bond gas & water, all tests fine, tried swapping to other RCD thinking that if it was a borrowed neutral it would show up by the neutral in the "borrowed" circuit being on the same RCD, gonna go back tommorow and strip the CU again, with a "fresh head"...

Went to see job the other day, customer had a PIR done, usual stuff, main bonds, 3036 board etc, quoted based on PIR, got the job, start testing, find 2way lighting used cpc as switched live, told customer, she said she didn't want it done unless it was to be done within my original quote, so...

they should still start ok with pressure in the tank, there's usually a "dump valve" which, when the tank reaches pressure and the pressure switch turns the pump off, the dump valve opens and releases the air between the pump and tank, (that's the hiss you get when the pump switches off), then...

one by one, turn off the breakers and see which one stops the fan from working, if it's on the ring circuit it'll need an fcu with probably a 3amp fuse

Any ideas on this one folks, ring circuit, couple of sockets on the top floor are spurred, (two individual spurs from from two seperate parts of the ring), insulation resistance of >500 between all conductors, RCD tests at 36ms@ x1, 13.6@x5, all normal so far, no tripping at half current, 27ma...

Just been to a property to price for some electrical work, there's no main bond on the Gas or Water main, I mentioned that as they are going to rent it out, they will need a gas safety check and that the bonding would need to be sorted for that, turns out that they got a gas ticket last week...

Anyone got any 32 amp breakers for an Ashley consumer unit, made in the early 90s with bus bar terminals at 90 degrees to normal?

It's always good to have an understanding of what you are paying someone to do in your property, some sparks don't like it when you start asking loads of questions, but you can at least then hopefully spot someone who's full of c##p, use that bit of knowledge to suss out who to use for your...

Shall I be the first to mention LABC? Part P etc?

is the existing fan switch actually on the fan? or somewhere else?

I think it's also a case of someone praising themselves in the first instance, it's like a red rag to a lot of folks, I do like to see other peoples work, and although I'm fussy, I nearly always come away from a job thinking of what I would like to have done differently, more from the aesthetics...

Part P was ill thought out, but the intention was good, if a customer pays good money for a building extension, or a new kitchen etc, they deserve to have the electrical and gas work done by competetent, accountable tradespeople, not by a kitchen fitter or bricky "who's fairly handy with...

On the MK Sentry board, where's the Neutral supply tail? and where is the bunch of neutrals (taped together) going near to the Neutral intake point?