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Once the shower waste goes outside there is a very decent fall till it joins with the stack, so it feels to me that the issue is with the first 3 feet or so from the tray till it goes outside. Does this still sound as though it's a likely cause?

Cheers guys, many thanks for your replies. I kinda felt that the tray needed raising, but, as it's not a 5 minute job, I wanted confirmation that the work involved is likely to resolve the problem.

Obviously I know it will be hard to give a definitive answer, but I'm asking anyway lol. Shower tray is always slow to start draining, and an inch or so of water always builds up in the tray very quickly when you start to shower. However, after that it keeps pace and the tray never overflows...

To be honest I know that a supporting post is the obvious solution, but I'd really rather avoid having to use one if I can.

Thanks for your replies. Twisting was the thing I was most concerned about, I did wonder whether it was viable to bolt the extra joists not only to the first joist/doubled joist, but also through to say the next joist or 2 across, with noggins (?) between the joists to help prevent twisting.

It will be a new stair, just serving the mezzanine.

I'm looking to add a small mezzanine to a house but the stair configuration I need to use will have a winder box in the corner of the room, then 1 additional tread. This means the first joist is further into the space than I'd like, as effectively the mezzanine is smaller by the width of that...

More or less, yes. It's a Victorian house that has an original attic room with a very steep set of stairs up to it that I'm looking to improve (as part of a separation into 2 flats). I suppose because I know what I'm trying to do my picture (to me) explains the situation but obviously not :lol...

Bump. Anyone?

I posted something similar in the loft and stairs section but unfortunately have had no response so I hope it's OK to try an updated post, with more information here in the general building section. Basically I'm looking for a way to support a small landing at the top of a flight of stairs up...

I've got a Victorian terrace with an original attic room with poor headroom and very steep stairs. I want to separate the house into 2 flats as there is already a large extension on the ground floor. There's a wall across the property just before halfway from front to back, and the joists for...

Thanks for all the replies. Tony Do you mind me asking if that's your own solution or is it on the instructions of a structural engineer? It's exactly the sort of thing that would work in my loft as there's no dormer so the area under the eaves would be behind a dwarf wall anyway.

Many thanks for the reply Sorry, I should have included that I think the party walls are only 4 inches thick so I'm not sure I can do any work that involves changes to them or beams put into them.

I've got a Victorian terrace house with an original loft room. I'm intending splitting it into 2 flats as there's a big, ground floor extension and so it should work well. I'd really like to lower the loft floor as headroom isn't great up there, and will be even worse once I upgrade the...

My concern is that I won't have enough movement to get the fitting on. However, I really think he needs a pump fitted as he hasn't got enough of a gradient, but he can't really afford one atm. Given that, I'd rather not have anything that isn't solvent welded in the run.

Just wondered if there is a trick of the trade I'm missing here. I need to fit a T (capped with an access cap) to a long run of 40mm pipe. It's an existing run that wouldn't meet current building regs and ultimately will need a pump, but it's my mate's flat and he's not very flush atm. They keep...

Cheers Frank, I've been away for a few days, sorry for the delay in replying.