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If I lay these on bare floorboards and obviously right up to the staircase, the last step will be that much higher, possibly causing people to trip up. not only that, I cant think of a neat trim solution to border the last step. what the accepted way of overlaying floors adjacent to...

did you seal the grout? b/

a 16ft by 16ft square room, I think you could do that for a lot less than 3k, you're ripping yourself off :) the floor is free if you look around skips of refurbished houses, those spotlights 3 for a tenner or thereabouts in homebase, plasterboard is fairly cheap, so is plaster. I think...

thanks bernard, those cabinet sockets look the biz, I have got some flush mounted floor sockets and recessed led lights into the floor, -on balance its a much less dangerous setup due to absence of trailing wires everywhere. b.

I'm extending a ring main to a cupboard under some stairs and thought it an ideal opportunity to have some sockets mounted on the 'ceiling' bit - facing either directly down or at an angle on the underside of the staircase, for an iron say. Whats the legs w.r.t. socket positioning? b/

I've read various good advice about 4 -1 sharp sand/cement +feb for internal brick , and also rapidset floortile for bathroom breezeblock (before tiling over). But how to prep the walls in both cases? pva or not (why would it be necessary in both cases if walls have been washed clean and...

dont trust tiling pro's - they can't do a perfect job because time is of the essence -unless they;re doing their own kitchen and dont have a nagging missus :D work out if your floor can support the weight, then buy about 250kg of slc, -assuming your room is 3x3m with a 2 inch drop from...

I'd chuck out the chipboard etc. -why lose the ceiling height? Then t&g your mahogany, click it nicely into place and screw into joists. Need to relay some pipes down the line? no probs, unscrew the boards. b.

dont seal over dirt, clean it with drain cleaner acid and water, may take off a bit of grout, but that can be reapplied easy enough. then seal the grout lines when all is dry.

if you dont want to bodge it, tile the walls and floors then put in the bath. seen too many bathrooms where the silicone has secretly failed and joists/studs rotted away behind.

a cheapo wet tile cutter with the safety guard off will do it easy, but make sure you wear goggles and a waterproof apron 8)

I'd find a local friendly catering supplies welder (usually found under railway arches and industrial estates) and get him to cut a very large stainless steel 'washer' out of 304 or similar grade ss, then weld to it a lenght of fat tubing to the depth of the recess, silicone that over the bodge...

if you're going back to the studs and effectively gutting the place, you should update your specs, -wetroom, ufh, water jets etc, for a bit of extra buck on your quotes can get a lot more bang :) b

if you got a steady hand...anglegrinder. I got a bit careless and chipped a few corners doing this (mainly because I couldnt see through the dust :) but it was nothing the new grout couldn't conceal. b.

are you sure youre using the right battens? 2cm battens are fine and for floorboard add another 2cm - you should be levelling up to 4cm in total. if its too late to undo, use the same battens on the bathroom floor, lay thick wbp ply and tile to level. b.

get a shed load of masking tape (self explanatory), a spatula for inch by inch grouting...and knee pads :)

if not too late, get your joists and floorboards treated for rot prevention. you'll constantly be spilling water maintaning a fishtank, especially a marine.

I'd sit the washer on some rubber grommets somehow.

nails have probably lifted, get a countersink drill bit and some suitable screws, screw down firmly into joists. I that dont work theres a bigger problem underneath.

thanks, whats the best way to connect the cable to the new socket and then out again? get a t adapter? or carefully strip relevant parts of the wire and 'loop' them into the socket connectors...the second if done well should be better than 1st.